Quantcast
Channel: the ulterior epicure
Viewing all 199 articles
Browse latest View live

12 days: camara of christmas… (2019)

$
0
0

5th Course: Pork Belly

I remember the first time I met Gabriela Camara. My friends and I were standing on the sidewalk outside of her new restaurant Contramar in Mexico City.  The sun was bright, the sky was clear, and spirits were high. Yet Camara managed to outshine all of it with her colorful entrance.

Mexican by birth, but having Italian heritage, Camara is animated and fun, warm and spunky.  And all of that comes through in her cooking.

Chef, businesswoman, and now cabinet member in the administration of Mexican President López Obrador, Gabriela Camara was the first guest chef took with hosting chef Christopher Kostow at this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurnat at Meadowood.

4th Course: Black Cod in Chile Atole  Gabriela Camara and Mariana Villegas

Dinner started with a parade of canapés in quick succession.  Among them were my favorite of Camara’s dishes, including a raw oyster spiked with a chili and sour cherry veneno; a thin slice of raw turnip topped with an equally spicy ripe persimmon pico;and a beautiful prawn tostada dotted with caviar.

Camara’s black cod dish was also a highlight, served with potatoes and charred cabbage, all of which made an excellent backdrop to a flavorful atole made from chiles.

Christopher Kostow  Plating.

Both desserts were strong.  Camara went through The Restaurant at Meadowood’s rainbow of fruit preserves and assembled a beautiful collection of stone fruits, which she served with baked meringues and whipped cream tinted with preserved cherry juice – a whimsical and delicious fruit cocktail.

Kostow and his team ended the dinner with a hickory corn tamal filled with a paste of dates and wild pecans. Served warm in steamed husks, it was drizzled with corn caramel. And it was spectacular – unquestionably one of the best desserts I’ve had. Ever.

6th Course: Meringue, Preserved Stone Fruits  7th Course: Hickory Corn Tamal

This is the menu from Day 1 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Gabriela Camara (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Oyster
Sour cherry veneno.
(Camara)

Turnips
Persimmon pico.
(Camara)

Prawn Tostada
(Camara)

Sunchoke Taco
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

1st Course
Broccoli Escabeche
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Sea Urchin Ceviche
(Camara)

3rd Course
Cauliflower
Chicken chicharron
(Camara)

4th Course
Black Cod in Chile Atole
(Camara)

5th Course
Pork Belly
Pumpkin coloradito.
(Camara)

6th Course
Meringue
Preserved stone fruits.
(Camara)

7th Course
Hickory Corn Tamal
Dates, wild pecans.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine Pairing


Franz Hirtzberger, Smaragd 2016

Keplinger “Eldorado,” 2017

Radio-Coteau, Savoy, 2013

Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2005

Taylor’s Vintage Port, 2003

Day 1: Gabriela Camara

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)

Photos: Plating Camara’s pork belly; Camara’s black cod on the pass; Gabriela Camara and her culinary director Mariana Villegas; Kostow plating; Camara and Villegas plating; Camara’s preserved stone fruits dessert; The Restaurant at Meadowood’s hickory corn tamal dessert; wine pairings; and Gabriela Camara and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood.


12 days of christmas: shieldses… (2019)

$
0
0

7th Course: Aged Pork

In April of 2011, my friends and I arrived in the sleepy town of Chilhowie, Virginia. We had driven eight hours from Charleston to eat at John and Karen Shieldses’ restaurant Town House.  The meal was as exciting and delicious as I had heard, and it was the beginning of a friendship that would bring John Shields to my hometown of Kansas City later that year, coincidentally, where he would cook alongside Christopher Kostow, chef of The Restaurant at Meadowood.

The next year, 2012, the Shieldses were invited to The Twelve Days of Christmas, which, as it so happens, was the very first year I was invited to attend the event (see the photos at the very bottom of this post).

In the years since those early encounters, I have met the Shieldses all over the world, mostly to eat – from New York to St. Louis and San Francisco; in Denmark, Sweden, and Spain (where we had first met, even before I had visited them at Town House). And of course, I’ve had dinner at their two Michelin-starred restaurant Smyth a couple of times since they opened in the West Loop of Chicago in August of 2016, once with Christopher and Martina Kostow.

All of this is to emphasize the many intersections in my life where Shieldses and Kostows meet. And to add one more, John and Karen Shields were invited back on the second night of the Twelve Days of Christmas this year to cook with Christopher Kostow and his team at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

John and Karen Shields Poached Squab

Of all of the guest chefs this year with whom I am familiar, I think the Shieldses’s sensibilities and approach to cooking are the most similar to Kostow’s. They are all incredibly clever culinarians, and so their food is brainy. But it’s not outlandishly so. It’s delicious. But not always straightforwardly so.  Like so many of the most compelling chefs of our current age, they trace the outer edge of normal, while staying well within the orbit of traditional cooking.

Take for example Kostow’s answer to John Shields’s caviar with chicken custard and a crispy pizelle.  Taking a friendly jab at Shields, Kostow served “A Better Caviar Dish” comprised of pickled okra seeds, which he mixed with the familiar trio of dill, shallots, and chives, and served it with warm potato blini and housemade crème fraîche.  The caviar war was the highlight of the dinner for me.

Another example of cleverness was the oyster Kostow served as a canapé. They had been kept alive in a tank of saltwater that had been smoked, fortified by an assortment of fresh seaweed.  The oyster were allowed to filter the water for 36 to 48 hours, which infused them with the smokey flavor of the water.

6th Course: Squab Glazed squab.

Rosa alba is a silky, blush-colored lettuce, and, as it turns out, an excellent camouflage for slices of aged pork, which Kostow tucked between the leaves.  The lovely, warm salad was dressed with a sauce tinged with ham garam.

Out of the pastry corner, Karen Shields sent out two desserts – a custard of black currant, with coffee oil, and an ice cream sundae infused with conifers and topped with black walnuts, which had been cracked by hand earlier in the day.

Pizelle maker.  Potato Blini

This is the menu from Day 2 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chefs John and Karen Shields (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Winter Greens
In a salad roll.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Baby Corn
Soured and fried.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Oysters
Bubbled in smoked sea water.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Caviar
Chicken custard, pizelle.
(Shieldses)

“A Better Caviar Dish”
Pickled okra seeds, blini.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

1st Course
Carrot Aguachile
(Shieldses)

2nd Course
Marinated Shima Aji
Barley.
(Shieldses)

3rd Course
River Trout
Apple, garden lettuces.
(Shieldses)

4th Course
Squab
Boudin noir, our preserves.
(Shieldses)

5th Course
Aged Pork
Rose alba, ham.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

6th Course
Mimolette Fondue
The Charter Oak bread, persimmon.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Black Currant Custard
Coffee, peppers.
(Shieldses)

8th Course
Conifer Ice Cream Sundæ
Black walnut.
(Shieldses)

Mignardise
Koji-Filled Chocolate
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Plating.

Fritz Haag, Riesling Trocken, Juffer, 2017

Kongsgaard, Albariño, Napa Valley, 2018

Peay, Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2016

13th & 3rd, Grenache Blend, Paso Robles, 2015

Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1988

Royal Tokaji 2013

Day 2.

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)

Photos: Saucing rose alba lettuce with aged pork; John and Karen Shields at afternoon line-up; blanching squab; Jacqueline Dasha saucing squab dish; Tyler Gore glazing squab; Karen Shields making pizelle; blini for the “A Better Caviar Dish” course; John Shields at the hot line; John and Karen Shields with Christopher Kostow with the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

2012

End of service.

2019

 Shields and Kostow

12 days of christmas: calvert… (2019)

$
0
0

1st Course: Drunken Quail

Each night of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood, hosting chef Christopher Kostow writes a person note about that night’s guest chef, which is printed with the menu. His note for Daniel Calvert, who cooked on the third night, was far more eloquent, precise, and personal than anything I could muster, and I include it here:

“I have had the good fortune of dining at Belon on more than one occasion, and have been struck by the multitudes contained in the dining experience there — the juxtaposition of finesse and warmth; of tradition and intuition; of East and West.

An alumnus of some of the world’s greatest restaurants, chef Calvert has the ease and grace of a chef who has mastered traditional techniques, while possessing the humor and wit that makes the application of such techniques a joy to witness.”

Crumpets!  4th Cousre: Squab Pithivier

Leading up to this year’s event, I received the usual onslaught of messages from followers and friends: which guest chef excites you most?  Unequivocally, it was the British-born Calvert.

He was one of three chefs this year whose cooking I had never had – the other two were Jeremy Charles and José Avillez. (In subsequent conversations with Calvert, I later discovered that I had eaten at both per se in New York City and Epicure at le Bristol in Paris when he was working at those two restaurants.) And given his culinary pedigree, and what little I had gleaned from those familiar with his cooking at Belon in Hong Kong, his cooking seemed anchored enough in classic, continental techniques to appeal to my preferences.

And it did.  Tremendously so.

Reach. 3rd Course: Young Sturgeon

Calvert’s canapés ran a multi-cultural gamut, from Comté gougères to cod tarama with mitsuba, and a delicious coupling of ikura and horseradish cream sandwiched with sorrel in ultra-flakey puff pastry.

My favorite expression of Calvert’s thoughtful, adaptive cooking – his marriage of continental culinary sentiments with the Asian culture of his newfound home in Hong Kong – was his “drunken quail.” Based on the Chinese “drunken chicken,” his version cleverly substituted sherry-like French vin jaune for the traditional Chinese shaoxing wine, a seamless flavor exchange.

He also trotted out excellent examples of haute craftsmanship – a beautifully burnished pithivier of squab with its yuletide heart of rosy reds and forest greens.  And for dessert, mille-crêpe layered with hazelnut pastry cream and black truffles, which took hours to make.

Crêpes, hazelnut, black truffles. 6th Course: Vacherin, Persimmon

Kostow met Calvert’s traditionalism with simple, classic flavors, like a clean cut of young sturgeon with a comforting purée of potatoes and green nasturtium, and a flavorful cut of prime rib with buttery crumpets, which was a highlight for me.  Kostow, who specializes in his own, unique form of adaptive cooking, also presented a cheese course representative of his new Napa cuisine – Vacherin cheese served simply with ripe, local persimmon, jelly-soft and candy-sweet.

This is the menu from Day 3 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Daniel Calvert (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

48-Month Aged Comté Cheese Gougère
(Calvert)

Cod Tarama
With mitsuba.
(Calvert)

Whelk
Tropea onion.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Oyster Tartare
Caviar.
(Calvert)

Fresh Ikura
Horseradish, sorrel.
(Calvert)

1st Course
Drunken Quail
(Calvert)

2nd Course
Hokkaido Scallop
Shio kombu, pomelo.
(Calvert)

3rd Course
Young Sturgeon
Fermented potato, nasturtium.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

4th Course
Squab Pithivier
Fig, amaretto.
(Calvert)

5th Course
Prime Rib
Oilseed, radish, crumpet.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

6th Course
Vacherin
Persimmon.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Black Truffle “Mille-Crêpe”
(Calvert)

Mignardises
“Last Bites”
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine pairings.

Hans Wirsching, Silvaner, 2017

Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot, Savagnin, 2015

Château Carbonnieux, Passac-Léognan, 2016

Cornas, 2017

La Jota Vineyard Co., Cabernet Sauvignon,
Howell Mountain, 2006 Heritage Release

Château Dauphiné Rodillon, Loupiac, 2009

Day 3: Daniel Calvert

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)

Photos: Plating “Drunken Quail,” plating accompaniments to the prime rib, including crumpets; Daniel Calvert and Christopher Kostow at the pass with squab pithiviers; Calvert finishing squab pithivier; Kostow finishing sturgeon dish; Calvert making black truffle mille-crêpes; wine pairings; and Calvert, Kostow, and The Restaurant at Meadowood team.

Day 3: Daniel Calvert

12 days of christmas: avillez… (2019)

$
0
0

In the garden.

The Portuguese empire spanned the globe, from Brazil through southern Africa all the way to the warm waters of the South China Sea, where it held the last European colony in Asia until 1999, when it relinquished Macau to China.  To understand Portuguese cuisine today, is to understand the trading routes that made the Iberian peninsula an important hub of ingredients, spices, and culture for centuries.

Jose Avillez traces these flavors in his cooking.  He is the chef and owner of over 20 restaurants in Portugal, including the two Michelin-starred Belcanto in Lisbon. And he was the fourth chef to cook at the Twelve Days of Christmas hosted by Christopher Kostow at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

7th Course: Beef Coulotte

The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive on the shores of Japan.  And, according to Avillez, it was the Portuguese who introduced the technique of lightly battering and frying to the Japanese. So, for one of his canapés, he served a sliver of tempura avocado, with a warm soup of lupin beans on the side, a Portuguese staple.

Avillez’s canapés also included a playful take on chicken piri-piri, a popular Portuguese dish that launched the wildly successful, global restaurant chain Nando’s. Traditionally, the chicken is marinated with piri-piri – a bird’s eye chili introduced to the Portuguese from its colonies in lower Africa – and barbecue roasted over fire. Avillez’s abstract version included corn nuts and crispy chicken skin.

Scarlet shrimp head emulsion.  6th Course: Baked Pigeon

There were more straightforward depictions of Portuguese cooking, like a comforting course of cabbage stewed with Portuguese sausages, which imparted a salty smokiness.  Avillez shaved black truffles over this.  And Avillez expressed the abundance of fresh seafood in Portugal with a simple dish of lightly poached scarlet shrimp.

For dessert, he served a take on the Portuguese “toucinho do ceu,” which translates roughly to “bacon from heaven” because pork lard is traditionally used to make this almond cake.  Avillez brightened his version with raspberry sorbet.

Scarlet shrimp heads. 3rd Course: Scarlet Shrimp with

Throughout this year’s twelve nights, Christopher Kostow gifted us with a parade of spectacular beef dishes. And his coulotte with grape pomace on this night was among the very best of them.

I also loved a mosaic of California citrus Kostow and his team served for dessert.  This set would reappear again in the dinner series, but this version included kalamanzi curd, a section of clementine, and angelica cookies.

This is the menu from Day 4 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef José Avillez (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Chicken “Piri Piri”
(Avillez)

Kale Chip
Flavors of chorizo.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Tempura Avocado
(Avillez)

Lupin Bean
Leche de tigre.
(Avillez)

1st Course
Yolk
Caviar, beans, bone marrow.
(Avillez)

2nd Course
Potatoes Cooked in Beeswax
Sorrel.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

3rd Course
Scarlet Shrimp
With “ashes.”
(Avillez)

4th Course
Portuguese Cabbage
Truffle.
(Avillez)

5th Course
Black Cod
Squid rice, grapes.
(Avillez)

6th Course
Baked Pigeon
Truffle, hazelnut.
(Avillez)

7th Course
Beef Coulotte
Grape pomace.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

8th Course
Local Citrus
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

9th Course 
“Toucinho do Ceu”
Raspberry sorbet, yuzu.
(Avillez)

Wine pairings.

Les Pentes Pouilly Fumé, Serge Dagueneau & Filles, 2018

Peugh Vinyard, Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2017

Território Vivo, Baga, Tinto, 2016

Brovia, Barolo Riserva, 2005

Corra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2008

Day 4: Jose Avillez

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)

Photos: José Avillez with his sous chefs Miguel Gomes and João Leitão in the garden; beef coulotte; Gomes and Leitão looking at shrimp head juice; Leitão shaving truffles over baked pigeon; grilling shrimp heads; Avillez at the pass inspecting the scarlet shrimp course; wine pairings; Avillez, Christopher Kostow, and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

12 days of christmas: park… (2019)

$
0
0

6th Course: Quail

If there was one guest chef who seemed to draw the most enthusiastic diners this year, it was the affable Junghyun Park.  Born and raised in South Korea, Park arrived in New York in 2012 to work at the then newly opened Jungsik before splitting off to open his own restaurants. Now he’s the chef and owner of the two Michelin-starred restaurant Atomix, and its more casual sister restaurant Atoboy, both in New York City.

Park was the fifth chef to cook with Christopher Kostow at this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

Junghyun Park in the garden. 4th Course: Winter Melon

While Park uses ingredients found in Korean cuisine, he doesn’t use them in traditional ways.  Instead, his cooking – like the cooking of so many international chefs of his generation – is revisionist, a form of cultural cooking that folds in elements of a global culinary experience. Techniques and ingredients borrowed from other cultures find their way in as clever substitutions or approximations, or playful experimentation.

Park told me that the dishes he served at the Twelve Days of Christmas were more representative of the food he serves at Atomix. Portion sizes tended to be smaller, representative of a longer tasting menu format.  And his plating had the elegant polish of modern fine dining, especially his canapés and first few courses, which were colorful gems, like a beautifully fluted gim bugak cup (a fried, vegetable crisp) with dried radish and spot prawn, or bright-orange tongues of uni in emerald masaengi broth.

6th Course: Quail 1st Course: Maesaengi Uni Pork

One of my favorite courses this night was Park’s winter melon terrine, which was generously heaped with caviar. I especially loved the fermented pepper habanada foam, which had a whiff of tanginess that helped thin out the richness of the other ingredients.  This was a fantastic dish.

9th Course: Hotteok and Barley Tea 8th Course: Black Chestnut Ice Cream

In the collaborative spirit of the Twelve Days of Christmas, Kostow and his team presented a collection of dishes with Korean flavors and ingredients. My favorite was stuffed quail stewed with jujubes and ginseng, which was sliced and served with scallion and gingko nuts.

Kostow ended the dinner with his version of hotteok, a sweet, Korean biscuit-like pancake, which was served with barley tea.

This is the menu from Day 5 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Junghyun Park (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Celtic and Buckwheat Tartlet
(Park)

Oyster Gaejang
(Park)

Spot Prawn
Gim bugak, dried radish.
(Park)

1st Course
Maesaengi Uni
Pork broth.
(Park)

2nd Course
Daikon
Benne seed, pear, butter clam.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

3rd Course
Yellowtail
Black apple, citrus.
(Park)

4th Course
Winter Melon Terrine
Caviar, fermented habanada.
(Park)

5th Course
Black Cod
Makgeolli kale.
(Park)

6th Course
Quail
Gingko, jujubes, ginseng.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Lamb Saddle
Gosari, perilla.
(Park)

8th Course
Black Chestnut Ice Cream
Pyogo.
(Park)

9th Course 
Hotteok
Barley Tea
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine pairings.

Les Pentes Pouilly Fumé, Serge Dagueneau & Filles, 2018

Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Clos Windsbuhl, 2003

Mayacamus, Chardonnay, Mt. Veeder, 2017

Darling, Pinot Noir, Azaya Vineyard, 2018

Rudd Estate, Red Wine, Napa Valley, 2004

Villa Oeiras, Carcavelos

Day 5: Junghyun Park

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)

Toast!

Photos: Yellowtail with black apple and citrus by Park; Park with Zach Yoder in the garden; Park’s winter melon with caviar, fermented chiles, and habanada; Kostow’s quail with gingko and jujube; maesaengi uni with pork broth by Park; Kostow’s hotteok with barley tea; Park shaving black truffles over chestnut ice cream; wine pairings; Park and The Restaurant at Meadowood team; Park and his team from atomix.

12 days of christmas: chan… (2019)

$
0
0

1st Course: Tigernut, Carrot

I was wrong about Jeremy Chan and his cooking.

When I first heard about his restaurant Ikoyi near Piccadilly in London, friends described the food as West African.  Not having much experience with West African cooking, I couldn’t say whether it was or wasn’t.  Some of the food that I had there seemed West African (there was a version of jollof rice, for example), but a lot of it didn’t. Honestly, I didn’t know what to make of my dinner at Ikoyi in September of 2019.  The one thing that did stick with me was how flavorful and delicious – and especially how daringly spicy – the food was.

The false assumptions and misconceptions about what Chan is doing at Ikoyi – in my case, admittedly abetted by my own lack of due diligence – are common (there was a whole article written about it). Maybe it’s because his friend and business partner Iré Hassan-Odukale is Nigerian, or that the restaurant is named after a posh neighborhood in Lagos.  And then there’s the fact that, indeed, Chan does use ingredients from West Africa.  But, having come to the professional kitchen from a career in finance, he said that he doesn’t ascribe to any one type of cuisine. His approach to cooking and flavor is wholly his own. And I’d say that’s evident.

Jeremy Chan was the sixth chef to cook at the Twelve Days of Christmas with Christopher Kostow at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

Searing chicken.  Jeremy Chan

There were a couple of familiar dishes from Ikoyi, slightly modified – like the spliced strip of plantain coated in raspberry salt powder, served with a bitingly hot cauliflower emulsion.

But quite a few of Chan’s dishes were inspired by ingredients available in California.  There was sliced abalone with sticky rice and a buttery sorrel emulsion, finished with roasted kelp oil.  There was also green luobo radishes from The Restaurant at Meadowood’s garden, which Chan topped with chopped green almonds and served with a sauce of bush pepper and ume relish.

Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan

My favorite part of dinner was the anchor course, right before dessert.  It was a collaboration between Kostow and Chan.  Kostow served slices of smoked lamb neck, spooned with a rich sauce of marigold. And Chan served his version of spicy jollof rice on the side.  The version I had at Ikoyi was flecked with crab meat.  This one was cooked with dried beef and topped with a creamy sea urchin custard.

Together, they were a flavorful and comforting pair.

4th Course: Green Daikon  7th Course: Lamb Neck

This is the menu from Day 6 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Jeremy Chan (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Oyster
Smoked mignonette.

Sorghum Dry-Aged Beef
Smoked eel, truffle.

Plantain
Raspberry, hedgehog mushroom.
(Chan)

Chestnut Beignet
Chestnut miso.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

1st Course
Tigernut
Carrot and caviar.
(Chan)

2nd Course
Georgia Candy Roaster
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

3rd Course
Abalone
Sticky rice.
(Chan)

4th Course
Green Daikon
Ground nut, pear relish.
(Chan)

5th Course
Confit Trout
Saffron velouté, garlic butter.
(Chan)

6th Course
Juniper-Smoked Chicken
New Zealand spinach.
(Chan)

7th Course
Smoked Lamb Neck
Marigold
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Smoked Jollof Rice
Sea urchin custard.
(Chan)

8th Course
Grilled Wild Rice
Persimmon, roasted miso.
(Chan)

Wine pairings.

Ried Schütte, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, 2017

Domaine Romaneaux – Destezet, Hervé Souhaut

Arietta, “On the White Keys,” 2017

Brick and Mortar, Chardonnay, Cougar Rock Vineyard, 2017

Domaine Guiberteau, “les Motelles,” Saumur, 2011

Corra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2006

Day 6.

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)

5th Course: Confit Trout

Photos: Tigernut with caviar and carrots by Chan; Tiffani DeGeorge searing chicken; Chan in the hoop house; Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan; green daikon by Chan; Daniel Kim saucing smoked lamb neck; wine pairings; Jeremy Chan, Iré Hassan-Odukale, Ricardo Nunes, and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; confit trout by The Restaurant at Meadowood.

12 days of christmas: nørregaard… (2019)

$
0
0

Squab in the Josper.

I first ate at kadeau in Copenhagen in early 2013.  What I loved about it then was how simple, delicious, and straightforward the food was compared to the New Nordic zeitgeist at the time.  Chef Nicolai Nørregaard showcased the flora and fauna of Scandinavia without veering into the bizarre.

Although I haven’t followed chef Nicolai Nørregaard as diligently as I’d like, I have managed to check in at his restaurants a couple of times over the years.  In 2014, I had the pleasure of visiting the original kadeau, on the beautiful Danish island of Bornholm, where I caught the last day of service in late summer before its seasonal closure. And at the top of 2016, I returned to kadeau in the city, after the Copenhagen location moved down the block.  But I hadn’t seen him since.  So I was especially happy to see him on this year’s roster of guest chefs at the Twelve Days of Christmas.  Nørregaard was the seventh chef to cook with hosting chef Christopher Kostow at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

6th Course: Kale  Costow plating Dairy Cow

Given how omnivorous both Nørregaard and Kostow are in their cooking, it wasn’t surprising that this dinner featured a particularly broad spectrum of colors and flavors.

Nørregaard’s opening volley was a plate of leaflets, stalklets, and slices from The Restaurant at Meadowood’s garden, all lightly dressed.  Arranged on giant platters, it was like a painterly page from Flora Danica.

There were cherry blossoms and peridot-colored preserves from Bornholm used to garnish clams; a pastel vignette in a shell. There was emerald-green kale, a fleshy leaf folded over with buttermilk whey.  And there were tiny, tender pine cones, thick in syrup, which Nørregaard used like nuggets of nougat on milk ice cream sundæ.

Canapé: Butter Clam In the garden.

There were treasures from the sea – spot prawns; squid veiled in lardo (served with a small bowl of warm beef broth); and thinly sliced scallop with horseradish cream, blanketed with a fine shaving of dried mussels.  All of them as flavorful as they were colorful.

Kostow revived one of his best dishes – cod coated with sunflower. This year, he smoked the cod, and served it with conserva of sunflower hearts.

And then there was a glorious strip of beef from an old dairy cow, served with charred onions and first milk.  It was just one of a parade of excellent beef dishes from Kostow during this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas.

Canapé:  8th Course: Dairy Cow

This is the menu from Day 7 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Nicolai Nørregaard (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Garden Plate

Broth of Roasted Beef

Squid and Lardo

Mackerel Preserves

Clam
Cherry blossom, Bornholm preserves.

(Nørregaard)

1st Course
Oyster Salad
Gooseberry, potato, and pea crumble.
(Nørregaard)

2nd Course
Goldball Turnip
Caviar, aged pork stock.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

3rd Course
Spot Prawn
Black currant leaf, tomato.
(Nørregaard)

4th Course
Scallop
Horseradish cream, mussels.
(Nørregaard)

5th Course
Smoked Cod
Sunflower heart conserva.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

6th Course
Kale
Fig leaf, buttermilk whey.
(Nørregaard)

7th Course
Squab
Beetroot, beef fat, hiprose.
(Nørregaard)

8th Course
Dairy Cow “en Retraite”
First milk.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

9th Course
Bornholm Conifers
Milk ice cream.
(Nørregaard)

10th Course
Last Bites
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine Pairing.

Empire Estate, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, New York, 2016

Domaine de Saint-Just, Brézé

Remelluri Blanco, 2016

Radio-Coteau, Anderson Valley, Chardonnay, 2015

WesMar, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2017

Marcel Lapierre, Villie-Morgon, Cuvée 2014

Paradigm, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, 1994

Day 7: Nicolai Nørregaard

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)

Herbs.

Photos: Tiffany DeGeorge roasting squab in the Josper; kale and fig leaf by Nørregaard; Kostow saucing dairy cow “en retraite,” clams with cherry blossom by Nørregaard; Kostow and Nørregaard in the garden; “Garden Plate” by Nørregaard; ribs from the dairy cow “en retraite;” wine pairings; Nicolai Nørregaard, Kyumin Hahn, and the team of The Restaurant at Meadowood; Charlie Appel trimming greens.

12 days of christmas: williams… (2019)

$
0
0

Brady Williams, Daniel Kim, and Zachary Yoder

I first heard of Brady Williams when he was hired to become the head chef at Canlis in spring of 2015.  And since then, he has catapulted into the national spotlight as a rising star (twice a finalist in the Rising Star category for the James Beard Foundation Awards, and winning the James Beard Award for Best Chef Northwest in 2019).

Williams was the eighth chef to cook with chef Christopher Kostow at the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

Canapé: Kohlrabi, Apple Plating spiny lobster.

Dinner started with a bracingly tart canapé of apple juice (I think it was slightly thickened with pectin) with small dices of crunchy kohlrabi.  It was bright start to dinner from Canlis pastry chef Crystal Chiu.

My favorite course from Williams was a porridge of Dungeness crab rice, which came sandwiched between two other seafood courses – an alabaster fist of cod pané from Kostow, served with a rich buttermilk and caviar sauce; and spiny lobster, which Williams served with fermented turnip and kani miso.

3rd Course: Cod  6th Course: Duck Tea

I really liked Kostow’s duck course.  The breast meat was sliced and served with cherries and wheat berries.  On the side, a warm cup of “duck tea, which was poured out of beautiful, vintage decanters. It was straightforward and comforting.

For dessert, Chiu presented a rather familiar couple – apples and cheddar – in new form. The two were set on brioche, and topped with wafer-thin sheet of toasted meringue.

From The Restaurant at Meadowood, a lovely parsnip tart, with its round, mellow sweetness providing an excellent background on which to showcase the aroma of freshly shaved white truffles.

3rd Course: Cod  9th Course: Cheddar, Apple, Brioche

This is the menu from Day 8 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Brady Williams (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Buckwheat
Rojo chiquito bean, green tea.
(Williams)

Buckwheat
Sea lettuce, marionberry.
(Williams)

Kohlrabi
Apple.
(Williams)

Sturgeon
Katsuobushi.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

1st Course
Daikon
Benne seed oil, pear.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Carrot
Chorizo, geoduck.
(Williams)

3rd Course
Cod
Buttermilk, caviar.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

4th Course
Dungeness
Crab rice.
(Williams)

5th Course
Spiny Lobster
Fermented turnip, kani miso.
(Williams)

6th Course
Duck Tea
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Duck
Cherry, celery, wheat berries.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

8th Course
Pork Collar
Squid beans.
(Williams)

9th Course
Cheddar
Apple, brioche.
(Williams)

10th Course
Parsnip Tart
White truffle.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine pairings.

Keller “Feuervogel,” Silvaner, 2015

Pichler, Riesling, 2016

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Esprit Blanc, 2017

Abbaye de Morgeot, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, 2017

Tatomer, Duvarita, Pinot Noir, 2013

La Jota Vineyard Co., Heritage Release, 2006

Day 8: Brady Williams

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)

Canlis.

Photos: Williams, Daniel Kim, and Zach Yoder in the garden; tart apple with kohlrabi by pastry chef Crystal Chiu of Canlis; Williams plating spiny lobster; cod with buttermilk and caviar by TRAM; duck tea by TRAM; cod with buttermilk by TRAM; Tyler Bentley torching meringue for cheddar and apple dessert; wine pairings, Brady Williams, Celeste Peralez, Crystal Chiu, and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Celest Peralez, Brady Williams, and Crystal Chiu.


12 days of christmas: charles… (2019)

$
0
0

Oxheart carrot.

I hadn’t heard of Jeremy Charles, or his restaurant Raymonds in Newfoundland.  But after doing a little reading, I uncovered an approach to cooking simpatico with my own perspective and preferences. In an age when social media make it easy for chefs to appear closer to nature, here you have a chef who seems genuinely so.  He doesn’t just hunt and fish to appear rugged and idyllic, or in parcel to a packaged narrative.  He hunts and fishes because that is a way of life in Newfoundland (it’s the only province of Canada where it’s legal to serve wild game in restaurants).

Charles cooked on the ninth night of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood with hosting chef Christopher Kostow.

Jeremy Charles Pasta.

I love Charles’s plainspokenness, which comes through in his cooking. There’s a broad-stroked appeal to it. You get it, for example, in his simplified version of “Jiggs dinner” – a traditional Newfoundland Sunday fare of boiled meat, often accompanied by a split-pea soup (oddly spelled “pease pudding”).  He stripped it down to bowl of fresh pasta cappelletti stuffed with pea mash, and a warm broth reminiscent of a meat boil.  It was tidy without being fussy, and yet evocative of the humble comfort of a Sunday supper.

So too was a plate of partridge, an unadorned portrait of upland woods: slices of the bird with a tender nugget of its heart, chanterelles, parsnip purée, and berries.

But his cooking was not without elegance. There was a fine, partridge liver mousse (waste not, want not), for example, that he piped into gougères; a canapé.  It was smooth and flavorful. And despite his rather unorthodox couplings – mousse heart and squid ink, or poundcake with blueberries and chanterelles – his food seemed entirely sensible.

Plating poundcake. 4th Course: Black Cod

Kostow waded out into field and stream with Charles with a menu that included foraged cauliflower mushroom with sumac (served as a canapé), and thick-cut slices of wild boar with apple mustard.

From the cold waters of the Pacific, there was Dungeness crab. And from the evergreen forests that surround The Restaurant at Meadowood, pine, which was infused into an ice cream sundæ.

5th Course: Partridge

This is the menu from Day 9 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Jeremy Charles (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Moose Consommé
Wild herbs.
(Charles)

Cauliflower Mushroom
Sumac.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Partridge Liver Profiteroles
(Charles)

Moose Heart
Currant, squid ink.
(Charles)

1st Course
Newfoundland Scallop
Smoked roe.
(Charles)

2nd Course
Dungeness Crab
Salsify, almond milk.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

3rd Course
Pea Pudding
Cappelletti.
(Charles)

4th Course
Black Cod
Pork, fava.
(Charles)

5th Course
Partridge
Parsnip, heart.
(Charles)

6th Course
Wild Boar
Apple mustard.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Blueberry
Chanterelle, pound cake.
(Charles)

8th Course
Pine Sundæ
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

9th Course
Chocolate Bay
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine pairings.

Domaine Patrick Baudouin “La Fresnaye,” Anjou.

Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet, Heré Souhaut

Hans Wirsching, Silvaner, 2017

Radio-Coteau, Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, 2015

Mascarello, Dolcetto d’Alba, 2017

Corra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2006

Day 9

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)

Antics.

Photos: Jeremy Charles, with Ross Larkin, Charlie Appel, and Zach Yoder in the garden; Charles at staff line-up; Charles and Larkin rolling pasta for cappelletti; Larkin plating blueberry poundcake dessert; black cod; partridge; wine pairings; Charles, Larkin and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Charles, Larkin, and Christopher Kostow.

12 days of christmas: lee… (2019)

$
0
0

Plating cod.

On the recommendation of a friend during a three-day layover in Singapore, I had the pleasure of eating at Candlenut.  That was the summer of 2016, just before the Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore, where it would award chef Malcolm Lee and his Peranakan cooking a worthy star later that year.

Lee brought his Sino-Malay cuisine to The Restaurant at Meadowood on the tenth night of The Twelve Days of Christmas, where he cooked with hosting chef Christopher Kostow.

3rd Course: Dungeness Crab  Shaving candlenut.

I am no expert on Peranakan cooking.  And although the home cooking of Singaporean aunties at church potlucks introduced me to this flavorful branch of Chinese cuisine, with its exotic spices and comforting gravies, I wasn’t aware of its origins, or that it had a name.

The Malay peninsula is a melting pot of cultures and ingredients – the husky spices of India; the fragrant herbs and shrimp paste of Southeast Asia; the meatiness of Indonesia, and the fiery chilis and soothing coconut milk of the tropics all hung on the backbone of Chinese cooking. The confluence is unique, and its results beguiling.

There are satays and curries, both of which appeared on Lee’s side of the menu.  Lamb satays and kueh pie tee cups of Lee’s yeye’s (grandfather’s) curry were served as canapés, as well as a version of Lee’s mother’s curry, which appeared as kueh bakar berlauk, a savory custard cake.

Kueh Salat Satay on the grill.

The main courses were a parade of comfort, from a yellow coconut curry of Dungeness crab, to saucey beef rendang served with rice dyed blue with pea flowers.

One of the many highlights for me was a steaming bowl of fish maw soup, with prawn and chicken. The smell of the broth in the kitchen, as it simmered, really did a number on me – whiffs of my childhood.  It did not disappoint at the table.

Another highlight was Christopher Kostow’s squab pithivier, which he sliced and plated with a rich, black truffle X.O. sauce.  That was tasty.

7th Course: Olio Nuovo  7th Course: Buah Keluak Ice Cream

The meal ended with some of my favorite desserts of this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas.  The Restaurant at Meadowood presented a carousel of citrus desserts, including a fragrant custard with olive oil.

Lee served a dark and moody ice cream of buah keluak – a poisonous fruit that is detoxified through fermentation – with chocolate.  I had a version of this dessert at Candlenut.  And, perhaps my favorite part of the entire meal, were the cubes of kueh salat that capped off the meal – sweet, sticky rice paved with a layer of coconut milk and pandan custard. It was paired with an immensely floral and fragrant tea (a special mix made for Candlenut), which, like the rice in both the rendang and kueh salat, was tinted blue with pea flowers.  I raved about it so much, that Lee’s girlfriend kindly gifted me an extra packet of the tea.

This is the menu from Day 10 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Malcolm Lee (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Kueh Pie Tee
Yeye’s curry.
(Lee)

Nika Salad Roll
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Kueh Bakar Berlauk
Mum’s curry.
(Lee)

Charcoal Lamb Satay
(Lee)

1st Course
Caviar, Sunchoke
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Fish Maw Soup
Prawn, chicken.
(Lee)

3rd Course
Dungeness Crab
Turmeric, coconut curry.
(Lee)

4th Course
Black Cod
Chuan chuan spinach.
(Lee)

5th Course
Squab Pithivier
Truffle X.O.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

6th Course
Beef Rendang
Blue pea flower rice.
(Lee)

7th Course
Olio Nuovo
Local citrus.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

8th Course
Buah Keluak Ice Cream
Chocolate.
(Lee)

9th Course
Kueh Salat
(Lee)

Wine pairings.

Pichler, Riesling, 2016

Domaine Maurice Schoech, Pinot Gris, Grand Cru Mambourg, 2015

Le Clarté de Haute Brion, 2012

Frog’s Leap, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 2017

Dirty & Rowdy, Mouvedre, Evangelho Vineyard, 2018

Philip Togni Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2005

Day 10: Malcolm Lee

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)
Malcolm Lee (Candlenut; Singapore)


 Malcolm Lee and Christopher Kostow

Photos: Malcolm Lee, Christopher Kostow, and Daniel Kim plating; dungeness crab course; Rya Sohn plating kueh pie tee; kueh salat; satays on the grill; “Olio Nuovo” with local citruses; Buah Keluak ice cream with chocolate; wine pairings; Lee with the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Lee with Kostow.

12 days of christmas: cantu… (2019)

$
0
0

Pork collar.

It seems only a short while ago that Val Cantu was hosting a pop-up in San Francisco.  Those early previews of Cantu’s modern, but studied approach to Mexican cooking generated considerable excitement.  Before I knew it, he had opened a small restaurant in the Mission and earned a Michelin star.  It was in those early days of the restaurant that I first visited Cantu at Californios.

The penultimate chef to cook at this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas, Cantu joined hosting chef Christopher Kostow on the eleventh night.

At the comal.  2nd Course: Black Truffle and Banana Tamal

Cantu issued the longest menu of the twelve nights.  The half dozen canapés alone – all by Cantu – were a feast. Highlights included kale tetelas filled with goat cheese, which Cantu griddled on a giant comal; a juicy squab taco; and short rib mole negro, which was served on a tortilla with shaved white truffles.

His main courses were just as colorful and diverse. There was a banana tamal with black truffles. The packet was opened table-side and crowned with caviar.

There were tender slices of abalone, shingled in a giant shell with cilantro butter.  And a bright ceviche of buri (Japanese amberjack) interleaved with a rainbow of citrus suprêmes, and garnished with slivers of jalapeño.

Canapé: Tetela of Local Kales and Goat Cheese  Canapé: Squab Taco

The Restaurant at Meadowood served a rich dish of smoked cod in a buttery sauce with soured corn. That was fantastic, as was the restaurant’s dessert of sweet potato.  The shock of bright, neon-orange flesh breaking out of its dusty, charred jacket was an arresting sight.  It was flambéed with tequila and sauced with tres leches caramel.

Canapé: Short Rib  2nd Course: Black Truffle and Banana Tamal

This is the menu from Day 11 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Val Cantu (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Green Garlic Sope
Brassicas, trout roe.
(Cantu)

White Sturgeon Taquito
Chives, caviar.
(Cantu)

Tetela of Local Kales
Goat cheese.
(Cantu)

Squab Taco & Squab Broth
(Cantu)

Short Rib Mole Negro
White truffle.
(Cantu)

Aztec Fuji Apple Sorbet
Key lime.
(Cantu)

1st Course
Butter Clam
Ourzak.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Black Truffle & Banana Tamal
Caviar.
(Cantu)

3rd Course
Ceviche of Buri
(Cantu)

4th Course
Aguachile of Cactus
(Cantu)

5th Course
Oysters en Michelada
(Cantu)

6th Course
Crab Tostada
(Cantu)

7th Course
Abalone in Cilantro Butter
(Cantu)

8th Course
Smoked Cod
Soured corn.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

9th Course
Pork Collar
Avocado leaf.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

10th Course
Sweet Potato
Tequila, caramel tres leches.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

11th Course
Sweet Tostada
Grapefruit, anise.
(Cantu)

12th Course
Oblea of Green Apple
Bon bons.
(Cantu)

Wine pairings.

Domaine des Tours, Réserve 2014

COS, Zibibo Ampora, 2017

Assyrtiko

Kistler, “les Noisetiers,” Sonoma Coast, 2015

Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1993

Roccolo Grassi, “La Broia,” 2015

Day 11: Val Cantu

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)
Malcolm Lee (Candlenut; Singapore)
Val Cantu (Californios; San Francisco, California)

Kostow, Cantu

Photos: Pork collar on the Josper; Val Cantu making tetelas at the comal; caviar for the black truffle banana tamal; tetelas on the pass; squab tacos; shaving black truffle over short rib with mole negro; Cantu finishing black truffle banana tamal; wine pairings; Cantu and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Christopher Kostow and the team from Californios.

12 days of christmas: kostow (2019)

$
0
0

Frying trout skin.

The last day of the Twelve Days of Christmas is a tangle of excitement and exhaustion that is well-documented in previous years on this blog (a complete, hyperlinked list of every single dinner since 2012 can be found at the bottom of this post).  For the cooks there’s the afterglow of having hosted eleven guest chefs, and the relief of having the kitchen back to themselves. There’s the anticipation of the busiest night of the series – seats at this finalé, starring host chef Christopher Kostow and his kitchen team, reliably sell out faster than any other night. And there are goodbyes put on hold, while every corner is deep-cleaned in preparation for the restaurant’s brief holiday closure.

For the young and new, it is an initiation to a ritual cherished by those who, like me,  have been there before.  However unslept and longing for home, in these final hours, I always harbor a sadness that another magical December in Napa – this, my seventh – draws to a close.

This year, on the twelfth night, Christopher Kostow marked his 132nd dinner of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

6th Course: Stuffed Quail 3rd Course: Charlie's Cheese

For years now, Kostow has used the last night to showcase his cooks.  The menu is a culmination of weeks of brainstorming, trials and errors, and an abundance of delicious triumphs.

If you watch closely throughout each year’s Twelve Days of Christmas, you’ll find hints and glimmers of the final menu embedded in the first eleven dinners.

Butter clam – a canapé on the twelfth night – with ourzak seasoning and celery had appeared in various iterations throughout this year’s series, as did the “last bites,” a changing carousel of fruit candies, which, on this final night, included quince pâté de fruit, braided cherry “Twizzlers,” and chocolate “figs.”

Other dishes were saved just for this last dinner, like the one showcasing gorgeous Oxheart carrots from the restaurant’s garden. These elephantine roots were presented as meaty slabs of “prime rib,” alongside creamy horseradish and buttery crumpets.  It was soulful and playful; a surprisingly convincing proxy.

6th Course: Stuffed Quail Lydia Lee

There were two highlights for me.

I have long-admired Kostow’s way with fowl. The stuffed quail he presented this night was no exception to his record.  Each plate had a half of a stuffed breast with California rice (a shorter, softer grain) and some gravy. All of it was blanketed with white truffles, shaved table side.  It was a comforting tuck, simple yet exquisite.

The other dish that really caught my imagination was Jacqueline Dasha’s version of poire tapée. This is an ancient technique from the Loire Valley in which pears are cored and dehydrated near a fire, flattened, and then rehydrated (often with wine, or in syrup).  Dasha’s modified version had the fleshy pears flambéed in dark caramel and spooned warm over bees wax ice cream.

4th Course: Black Cod Flambé

This is the menu from Day 12 of the Twelve Days of Christmas by Christopher Kostow and his team a The Restaurant at Meadowood (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Chestnut Beignet
Miso, black truffle.

Grilled Butter Clam
Ourzak, celeries.

1st Course
Smoked Trout
Persimmon, trout roe,
fermented onion, yogurt.

2nd Course
Dungeness Crab
Turnip, fresh pecan oil.

3rd Course
Charlie’s Cheese
Crispy bread, caviar.

4th Course
Black Cod
Steamed in mustard greens, cultured butter.

5th Course
Oxheart Carrot “Prime Rib”
Horseradish cream, crumpets.

6th Course
Stuffed Quail
California rice, white truffle.

7th Course
Pork Collar
Sour cherry, black olives.

8th Course
Sunchoke Trifle
Russian apple.

9th Course
Tapée Pear
Beeswax ice cream.

10th Course
“Last Bites”
Quince pâté de fruit, sunchoke macarons,
chocolate “figs,” cherry “Twizzlers,” and citrus.

Wine pairings.

Peter Jakob Kühn, Riesling Kabinett, 2018

Gemina, 2017

Domaine de Saint-Just, Brézé

Ramey Chardonnay, Ritchie Vineyard, 2016

Gravner

La Guiraude, Crozes-Hermitage, Alain Graillot, 2016

Shafer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, 1993

Day 12

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)
Malcolm Lee (Candlenut; Singapore)
Val Cantu (Californios; San Francisco, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

The Twelfth Night

Photos: Daniel Kim frying trout skin; Jacqueline Dasha shaving white truffle; caviar and crispy bread with Charlie’s cheese; stuffed quail with rice; Lydia Lee on mop duty; black cod with mustard greens; Tyler Bentley and poires tapée flambée, wine pairings; the staff at The Restaurant at Meadowood; the dining room at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

travel: in dazzling relief… (2019)

$
0
0

Mural.

Cologne and wood smoke hit me as I peered through my camera for the first time in weeks. The lingering evidence of where I had last used it was a jarring telescope of just how far away two months ago feels.

As I tap out this tardy review of 2019 from my fastness on the edge of the prairie plains, I have been isolating at home now for 67 days.

From here, I’ve watched the cycles of grief and panic play out online as a generation, spoilt by decades of nearly unhindered convenience, grapples with stoppage and sacrifice. I’m quietly horrified by the daily doses of trauma porn that have streamed across our screens, and the reaction among those who have succumbed to them. Having little patience for doom, I’ve turned off the spook show and look to the better angels among us for the kind of sensible solutions and hope that will carry us out of this pandemic. Thankfully, there is plenty of triumph to be found – among the frontlines and the innovators, and in the everyday acts of kindness and generosity that get drowned out by the Chicken Littles of our day.

La Sagrada Familia

Suddenly confronted, in stark terms, with the degree to which my role in society is “non-essential,” I am now increasingly grateful for the luxury of having been able to indulge my non-essentialness for so long. But being sidelined during this pandemic has heightened a sense of uselessness, an unsettling feeling at a time when there is so much to be done for the world.

So I’ve focused on bettering my little corner, and have learned to be useful in it. Fortuitously, this pause has enabled me to minister to a string of scary, family health crises that would have been unthinkably stressful to handle from the road, not to mention during a viral outbreak that preys upon the compromised.  It has also allowed me time to address a backlog of projects that requires the kind of stationary attention that had been sorely lacking in my life.  Most of them have been mundane tasks, like cleaning out closets and backing up hard drives: my archive of nearly two decades’ worth of photographs and data has finally found a safer, second home up in the cloud.  Some have been fun detours, to add color to the blandness of endless isolation: between FaceTime and Zoom chats, I’ve finally gotten around to watching the “Sopranos,” for example, and finishing Ron Chernow’s epic encomium on Alexander Hamilton. And I’ve happily disappeared for hours into old Graham Norton shows, and geeking and gawking on Hodinkee.

But the bulk of my attention has been devoted to quiet creativity.  I’ve updated my photography website. It now more accurately reflects recent work, some of which I will write about here shortly.  Having toyed with starting a podcast, I’m finally seeing audio hardware arriving at my doorstep (advice and suggestions are welcome).  And, most importantly for you, the readers of this blog, changes are afoot: this is the last time you’ll be reading a post from this site, as you’ve known it. Thanks to a chance meeting and the generosity of WordPress, which has hosted this site for well over a decade, this blog is getting a much needed facelift.  The next post you read will be on a far more handsome and robust platform, which, I am hoping, will encourage me to deliver more content more consistently. This blog has been the most regrettable collateral damage of my growing busyness over the years – 2019 saw the least number of posts since I started writing here some 15 years ago.  And I intend to use this relaunch to correct that.

Ernest Hemingway House

Unlike previous years, there were no far-flung excursions to exotic lands: I didn’t perch on the rim of a great waterfall in Africa, or climb temple ruins in the jungles of Southeast Asia, like in 2017.  There were no caribou hunts in Greenland as in 2018, or adventures Down Under, like I had in 2016.

Yet, framed against the sobering backdrop of present events, 2019 now shines in particularly dazzling relief.  

In the seven years since I started transitioning to professional photography, last year was the first year in which I achieved a critical mass of work. A calendar that began to brim with clients in 2017 finally overflowed in 2019.  Reaching that tipping point has not only been professionally satisfying but incredibly edifying as well.  I marvel at the growing cast of extraordinary people that now surrounds me, some of the brightest and most successful in the culinary and hospitality industries.  Working alongside them and learning from them has been as humbling as it has been rewarding.

Due to a tightly packed schedule, most of my leisure travel in 2019 was piggy-backed on to work trips. But I was able to wedge in a few personal detours, like a brief escape to Whidbey Island to see my godchildren, a soul-satisfying week of fly-fishing in Montana, pit stops for food in New Orleans and Chicago, and celebrating with friends at weddings in Los Angeles and Los Cabos.

Altogether, 2019 took me to a score of cities scattered across more than a dozen states and six countries (pushing me past the one million milestone of cumulative travel with Delta Airlines).  Obviously, there’s not enough room for all of it in this post – I really should have done a better job of issuing updates throughout the year.  Instead, as in previous years, I provide an abbreviated tour, mostly for my own record.

In the garden.  Breakfast

While most of my photography work revolves around food and beverage, I am thankful that many of my clients have supported me in exploring other orbits. Indeed, they’ve not only allowed but have encouraged me to give in to the gravitational pull of editorial, as well outdoor and lifestyle content. And I love it.

In 2019, I significantly enlarged my footprint within the hotel industry.

I worked with properties that ranged from small, privately owned luxury hotels, like The Umstead – a gem in Cary, North Carolina – to the global Fairmont family of hotels, which stretches from Brazil to Singapore.  In 2019, I was hired to photograph for restaurants at its properties across Canada, including the Palliser in Calgary, the flagship Royal York in Toronto, as well as the storied landmark The Plaza Hotel in New York City, now under the Fairmont umbrella.  I was also brought in to photograph a corporate campaign to launch a brand-wide cocktail program, which took me to the legendary The Savoy in London (the magnificently preserved, lacquer-paneled lifts are stunning). That was a treat.

And, I eagerly returned to work with Blackberry Farm and Blackberry Mountain for a second year. These sister properties, on sprawling acreage in the Smoky Mountains, represent the pinnacle of American hospitality.  I’ve enjoyed experiencing and capturing the seasonality of the Appalachia, and seeing how each property adapts everything, from food service to decor and activities, accordingly. I was also flattered to be asked to contribute an article to the their inaugural issue of Blackberry Magazine, which launched in the second half of last year.

Fox hunt.

For years, the bulk of my work came from a core coterie that has become a beloved part of my annual routine.  They are among my earliest, and most loyal supporters, and have not only become colleagues, but friends. They decorate my calendar perennially with shiny objects that keep me motivated and excited throughout.

I was in Minneapolis thrice to photograph for Gavin Kaysen’s Synergy Series, which returned for a third season, after going dark in 2018 while he was opening his latest restaurant Demi.

I continued photographing for Joshua Skenes and his growing roster of restaurants in California.  In 2019, I spent quite a bit of time photographing for both Angler restaurants – the one in San Francisco, and the second one that opened in Los Angeles last June.  I also spent a week with him being broiled in the staggering heat of the Florida flats in search of tarpon. Seven days of nothing ended in a majestic, 160 lb. beauty that he brought to boat on day eight. It was worth the wait.

I went not once, but twice to Palmetto Bluff, the idyllic Lowcountry haven spread across 20,000 acres of coastal South Carolina. In January, Courtney Hampson tapped me for a new event that she was hosting, “Field in Fire.” It’s an outdoorsman’s extravaganza that includes falconry, clay shooting, and a fox hunt (delicious food and great music are, of course, de rigueur). In November, I returned for the ninth year to photograph “Music To Your Mouth.”

December was spent at Napa Valley, where I have been spoiled working with Christopher and Martina Kostow, and their amazing teams at The Restaurant at Meadowood.  This was my seventh year photographing “The Twelve Days of Christmas.

And, in a very different field, I marked my fifth year at Drift, and my fourth year with its sister magazine, Ambrosia. I’m very lucky to be included in the incredibly talented editorial staff, which includes the founder Adam Goldberg, the Creative Director Daniela Velasco, and the Executive Editor Elyssa Goldberg.

Benton's ham.

In the rickhouse.

Between work trips, I managed to check off a number of bucket list items.

I finally set eyes on the Canadian Rockies in Banff National Park, and walked across the legendary Lake Louise. In early April, the glacial reservoir is a frozen expanse hemmed in by steep banks of pine.

I went to the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville, Tennessee and learned a bit of country music history. On the other side of that state, I visited Allan Benton’s smokehouse in Madisonville. He and his wife Sharon invited me to their home, where she taught me how to make biscuits, and sent me off with a duffle bursting with ham.

My first trip to Louisville, Kentucky included hot browns and plenty of bourbon, appropriate accessories for a boys’ trip.  We drove to Frankfort and visited Julian van Winkle, who was kind enough to show us around the distillery at Buffalo Trace, where is family’s bourbon is made.

In nearby Bardstown, we toured Willett Distillery, and met with Drew Kulsveen, the master distiller, who generously invited us to join him for lunch afterward at the newly opened bar on property.  John Sleasman, who I last saw cooking at McCrady’s, is now chef there. He makes a killer egg salad sandwich. The burger ain’t too shabby either.

El Nacional  Alouette

I spent my birthday with friends in Spain. We started on the northern Basque coast, where we stuffed our faces with jamón and turbot, and juicy strips of chuleta. On our drive to Barcelona, we crossed over into France and stopped for oysters in Biarritz. A couple of hours later, we took a crisp, afternoon breather in the mountain enclave of Andorra, where we happened to catch the FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup. That was a three-country day.

In September, I made my annual pilgrimage to Copenhagen.  It had been a full year since my prior visit, and I missed it.  I caught up with dear friends, and ate at my favorite restaurants, as well as a couple of newcomers, including Alouette, Nick Curtin’s Michelin-starred perch in the warehouse district of Islands Brygge, and at Yves Le Lay’s cozy new francophone à terre, near Kongens Nytorv.  The weather being glorious at that time of year, I spent all my free time wheeling about the city, taking leisurely excursions to Juno Bakery in Østerbro for cardamom buns, and Richard Hart’s eponymous bageri in Frederiksberg for cookies and coffee.

Hatfield House  Violet Bakery

If there was one centerpiece to my travels, it was London.  I visited twice.

In the spring, I went with friends from Kansas City who had never been to England.

We visited Hatfield House, the glorious Jacobean site of sororal feuds and the seat of the ancient Cecil dynasty.  We also toured the massive fortress at Dover Castle and the imposing Tudor court at Hampton Palace. Especially unforgettable was the warren of underground tunnels of Churchill’s War Rooms – an inspiring reminder of the will for victory.

With my friends, I revisited Windsor Castle, paid our respects to the Duke of Wellington at St. Paul’s Cathedral, and admired the glittering Crown Jewels, which I had not seen since college. (They’ve installed people movers to funnel and keep the foot traffic moving. It being a surprisingly slow day, my friends and I rode it like a carousel, back and forth for repeated inspections of those shiny objects.)  And I dragged them to the abbey at Westminster, where I floated through, entranced by Jeremy Irons on the audio guide, narrating a millennium of history in that deep, lazy drool of his.  It’s disgusting the way he yawns from one word to the next. I love it.*

We had slip sole at The Sportsman, and bacon butties and kippers for breakfast at The Hand and Flowers in Marlow.

In London, we grazed our way from Shoreditch to Mayfair.  There was a beautifully burnished pig and trotter pie at St. John Bread & Wine.  We drowned big, ripe strawberries in cream at The Goring, and had a lovely courtyard breakfast at Rochelle Canteen, where I returned the next day for a nicely cooked sole with velvety dulse butter.

We went to the River Café, which is one of the first restaurants in London where I dined as an adult. That plate of ricotta gnudi alone, humming with nutmeg, is worth the trek to Hammersmith. I learned afterward that there is a strict curfew in that neighborhood, which explains the abrupt end to our night. The bill was collected as hastily as it had been dropped off, and we were practically ushered out while eating our desserts.

And there was an uproariously fun night at le Gavroche, where we were waited upon by identical twins. Dressed distinctly in matching uniforms, with thick-rimmed glasses, they served us one at a time for the first half of the dinner – never appearing together. Imagine our confusion when we eventually looked up from our table to see them standing next to each other.  I’m convinced the mischief was premeditated.  We laughed for days. 

Rainbow.

In the fall, I returned to London on my own.  A pit stop between destinations – let’s just call it what it was: a fashion errand – gave me an excuse to visit a few restaurants that had come to my attention. I swung by James Lowe’s new eatery Flor at Borough Market for breakfast (terrific pastries). By chance I caught him for a chat, and stayed for lunch, which I thoroughly enjoyed.  I also had dinner at Ikoyi at St. James’s to get a preview of what chef Jeremy Chan might be cooking at the Twelve Days of Christmas later in December.  You’ll find commentary on both meals in this prior post.

I visited Kensington Palace. Did you know: at the death of King George IV, he and his six brothers had fathered no fewer than 50 illegitimate children, but had not one legitimate male heir among them? Guys, you had one job…

I also carved out an afternoon for the National Portrait Gallery, where I gushed at an embarrassment of Holbein, which littered this incredible collection of art (I found more of the meister’s work next door at the National Gallery).  I worshiped a trove of paintings by Sir Thomas Lawrence, including more than one of his patron, the aforementioned George IV, rendered in all of his flamboyant charm.  And I couldn’t linger long enough in front of the delicious portrait of James II by Sir Peter Lely, a smug swagger and withering glance framed by a magnificent mane. Outrageous, I tell you. Outrageous.

Felix Roasting Co.  Bookbinder

If you think the collection of Holbein I saw in London would top my year, it was rivaled by the breathtaking pair I found at the Frick Collection in New York in November. I had heard the museum was closing for a prolonged renovation. So I hurried in to steal one last glance at those two magnificent portraits by Holbein of Sir Thomas More (those velvet sleeves!) and Thomas Cromwell, mortal enemies in life, now destined to stare at each other in eternal irony on the walls of Henry Clay Frick’s living room.

There was also an unforgettable collection of art and jewelry on display at Sotheby’s a few blocks away, where the incumbent Duke of Devonshire was auctioning off parts of his private collection from Chatsworth.  I was dumbstruck by the breadth and depth of his holdings – everything from da Vinci to John Singer Sargent, and yes, even a portrait of Henry VIII from the workshop of Holbein.

And there was the highly acclaimed (and, in my opinion, bizarre) production of Philip Glass’s “Akhnaten” at the Metropolitan Opera, which was the actual reason for this brief visit to New York.

The Hongs.

Sarah Steffen

When will I work again?  I don’t know.

Am I worried?  Like most who work in and around the hospitality industry, of course I am. I feel like I’m in a suspended state of animation, bracing for an impact that may come next week, next month, or not at all.

The specter of uncertainty haunts all of us.  And this post – actually, all of my annual walks down memory lane – serves as a personal reminder to be grateful for all of the opportunities that I’ve had, and, especially, for having maximized every one of them.  I can happily say that I have no regrets from 2019.  I squeezed every ounce of pleasure from it.  And if I am to have no more, I am content knowing that I’ve already enjoyed more than my fair share.

But let’s hope it doesn’t end here.

There are projects to be continued.  In 2019, I partnered with the Karbank family to create a series of symposia highlighting issues in the culinary community.  We’ve hosted two already, and look forward to more.

There are stories to be told: Even as I type, work has commenced on the next volumes of Drift and Ambrosia.

There are meals to be had.  My 40th birthday dinner was postponed two years ago due to an unexpected renovation at that restaurant. Rescheduled for late March this year, it was put on hold again due to this pandemic.  I will have that meal.  

And there is world to see.  So much world to see.

I’ve talked with chefs and restaurateurs.  I know how grim the numbers look. I’ve also spoken with doctors and healthcare workers, and know just how grisly those numbers have looked as well.  But I’m inspired by the persistence and resilience I see all around me. Despite bombastic headlines that irresponsibly incite fear and outrage, sew division, and rob us of reason (to what good end?), glimmers of hope increase by the day.  I watch with cautious optimism as parts of the world slowly reopen.  And I pray for their success, because their success will be all of our success.

God speed.

Brennan's  Richard Hart

In preparation for my annual posts about my favorite dishes, desserts, and meals from 2019, I provide here an accounting of all of the restaurants that I visited last year.

JANUARY

Bella Napoli (Kansas City, Missouri)
Blue Koi (Kansas City, Missouri)
Carniceria San Antonio (Kansas City, Missouri)
Columbus Park Ramen (Kansas City, Missouri)
Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room (Kansas City, Missouri)
Farm Bluffton, The (Bluffton, South Carolina)
Grey, The (Savannah, Georgia)
Grey Market, The (Savannah, Georgia)
Happy Gillis Café & Hangout (Kansas City, Missouri)
Kin Lin (Kansas City, Missouri)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Restaurant at 1900, The (Fairway, Kansas)
Rye (Kansas City, Missouri)
Slap’s BBQ (Kansas City, Kansas)
Vietnam Café (Kansas City, Missouri)

FEBRUARY

American, The (Kansas City, Missouri)
Barn at Blackberry Farm, The (Walland, Tennessee) (2x)
Brennan’s (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Café du Monde (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Carniceria San Antonio (Kansas City, Missouri)
Coquette (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Dogwood at Blackberry Farm (Walland, Tennessee) (2x
Domilise’s (New Orleans, Louisiana)
J.C. Holdway (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Joe’s Kansas City (Kansas City, Kansas)
Justine (New Orleans, Louisiana)
La Petite Grocery (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Napoleon House (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Tacos el Gallo (Kansas City, Missouri)
Three Sisters at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee)
Turkey and the Wolf (New Orleans, Louisiana)

MARCH

Asador Etxebarri (Axtondo, Spain)
Bar Von der Fels (Calgary, Alberta; Canada)
Bar Zabaleta (San Sebastian, Spain)
Bluestem (Kansas City, Missouri)
Borda Berri (San Sebastian, Spain)
Brobeck’s Barbeque (Leawood, Kansas)
Campground, The (Kansas City, Missouri)
Cervecería Catalana (Barcelona, Spain)
Elkano (Getaria, Spain)
El Nacional (Barcelona, Spain)
El Quim de la Boqueria (Barcelona, Spain) (2x)
Farina (Kansas City, Missouri) (2x)
Firetower at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (3x)
Ganbara (San Sebastian, Spain) (2x)
Granja M. Viader (Barcelona, Spain)
Grapes at the Fairmont Banff Springs (Banff Springs, Canada)
Hawthorn (Calgary, Alberta; Canada) (4x)
Les Halles (Biarritz, France)
Mesón Bidea Berri (San Sebastian, Spain)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Poi-Ō (Kansas City, Missouri)
Poppy Brasserie (Lake Louise, Canada)
Rye (Kansas City, Missouri)
Salamanca Silvestre (Barcelona, Spain)
Sidreria Lizeaga (San Sebastian, Spain)
Silver Dragon, The (Calgary, Alberta; Canada)
Three Sisters at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (3x)
Vermillion Room (Banff Springs, Canada)
Walliser Stube (Lake Louise, Canada)

APRIL

Angler (San Francisco, California)
Atlantikos (Bal Harbour, Florida)
La Mercerie (New York, New York)
Le Coucou (New York, New York)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Surf Club, The (Miami, Florida)
TAK Room (New York, New York)
Verjus (San Francisco, California)

MAY

3 Arts Café (Chicago, Illinois)
Avec (Chicago, Illinois)
Barn at Blackberry Farm, The (Walland, Tennessee)
Bavette Bar & Boeuf (Chicago, Illinois)
Beech House (St. Albans, The United Kingdom)
Biscuit Love (Nashville, Tennessee)
Butcher and the Bee (Nashville, Tennessee)
Arnold’s Country Kitchen (Nashville, Tennessee)
Café Marie-Jeanne (Chicago, Illinois)
Dishoom (London, The United Kingdom)
Firetower at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (4x)
Forge (Whitstable, The United Kingdom)
Goring, The (London, The United Kingdom)
Gymkhana (London, The United Kingdom)
Hand and Flowers, The (Marlow, The United Kingdom)
Herons (Cary, North Carolina) (once, twice)
Hatfield House (Hatfield, The United Kingdom)
Kaspar’s at The Savoy (London, The United Kingdom)
Le Gavroche (London, The United Kingdom)
Lily Vanilli (London, The United Kingdom)
Lyle’s (London, The United Kingdom)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Pinewood Social (Nashville, Tennessee)
River Café, The (London, The United Kingdom)
Rochelle Canteen (London, The United Kingdom) (2x
Rolf & Daughters (Nashville, Tennessee)
Savoy Grill (London, The United Kingdom)
Sportsman, The (Seasalter, The United Kingdom)
St. John Bread & Wine (London, The United Kingdom) (2x)
Umstead Hotel & Spa (Cary, North Carolina)
Violet Bakery (London, The United Kingdom)
Wolseley, The (London, The United Kingdom)
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (London, The United Kingdom)

JUNE

Aloette (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Angler (Los Angeles, California) (2x)
A.O.C. (Los Angeles, California)
Bar Raval (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Brewery Bhavana (Raleigh, North Carolina)
Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room (Kansas City, Missouri)
Crown Pastries (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Dandylion (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Dialogue (Santa Monica, California)
Felix Trattoria (Venice, California)
GB Hand-Pulled Noodles (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Ghadir Meat (Makam, Ontario; Canada)
Gjusta (Venice, California) (3x)
Happy Gillis Café & Hangout (Kansas City, Missouri)
Leo’s Taco Truck (Los Angeles, California)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Northern Dumpling Kitchen (Richmond Hill, Ontario; Canada)
Pizzeria Mozza (Los Angeles, California)
Polo Lounge (Beverly Hills, California)
Reign at the Fairmont Royal York (Toronto, Ontario; Canada) (3x)
Restorans Malaysia (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Sonoratown (Los Angeles, California)
Tacos la Guera (Los Angeles, California)

JULY

Angler (Los Angeles, California)
Angler (San Francisco, California)
Boulette’s Larder (San Francisco, California)
Dialogue (Santa Monica, California)
Fox and Pearl (Kansas City, Missouri)
Gjusta (Venice, California)
Jam! (Bozeman, Montana)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Petit Trois (Los Angeles, California)
République (Los Angeles, California)
Shack, The (Twin Bridges, Montana) (4x)
Verjus (San Francisco, California)
Wagon Wheel, The (Twin Bridges, Montana)
Wells Fargo Steakhouse (Virginia City, Montana)
Zuni Café (San Francisco, California)

AUGUST

1900 Barker (Lawrence, Kansas)
Fox and Pearl (Kansas City, Missouri)
J. Rieger & Co. (Kansas City, Missouri)
Mass Street Fish House & Raw Bar (Lawrence, Kansas)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Ragazza (Kansas City, Missouri)
Rye (Leawood, Kansas)
Savoy at 21C (Kansas City, Missouri)
Tacos el Gallo (Kansas City, Missouri)

SEPTEMBER

108 Corner (Copenhagen, Denmark) (once, twice)
à terre (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Alouette (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Angler (Los Angeles, California) (3x)
Antico (Los Angeles, California)
Apollo Bar (Copenhagen, Denmark) (2x)
atoboy (New York, New York)
Bistro Bohême (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Café Altro Paradiso (New York, New York)
Flor (London, The United Kingdom)
Gjusta (Venice, California)
Hija de Sanchez (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Holborn Dining Room (London, the United Kingdom)
Ikoyi (London, The United Kingdom)
Juno the Bakery (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Kong Hans Kælder (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Marchal (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Pasjoli (Santa Monica, California)
Pavillion at Kensington Palace (London, The United Kingdom)
Plaza Hotel, The (New York, New York) (4x)
Restaurant at 1900, The (Fairway, Kansas)
Rye (Kansas City, Missouri)
Shun (New York, New York)
St. John (London, The United Kingdom)
Tartine Sycamore (Los Angeles, California)
Will at the Bridge; Broens Gadekøkken (Copenhagen, Denmark)

OCTOBER

A Dopo (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Angler (Los Angeles, California)
Barn at Blackberry Farm, The (Walland, Tennessee)
Bavel (Los Angeles, California)
Bluestem (Kansas City, Missouri)
County Road Ice House (Kansas City, Missouri)
Emilia (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Firetower at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee)
Fox and Pearl (Kansas City, Missouri)
Gjusta (Venice, California)
J.C. Holdway (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Joe’s Kansas City (Kansas City, Kansas)
LC’s BBQ (Kansas City, Missouri)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Night + Market (Los Angeles, California)
Pasjoli (Santa Monica, California)
Polo Lounge (Beverly Hills, California)
République (Los Angeles, California)
Seva Cuisine of India (Liberty, Missouri)
Sichuan Impressions (Los Angeles, California)
Tartine Sycamore (Los Angeles, California)
Three Sisters at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (3x)
Wild Love Bakehouse (Knoxville, Tennessee)

NOVEMBER

Angler (San Francisco, California)
Brown Hotel (Louisville, Kentucky)
Butchertown Grocery (Louisville, Kentucky)
Eagle, The (Louisville, Kentucky)
Lincoln Ristorante (New York, New York)
Mako (Los Cabos, Mexico)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Mozza Pi (Louisville, Kentucky)
PPQ Dungeness Island (San Francisco, California)
Tsukushinbo (Seattle, Washington)
White Light Diner (Frankfort, Kentucky)
Willett Distillery (Bardstown, Kentucky)

DECEMBER

Birdie G’s (Santa Monica, California)
Bouchon (Yountville, California)
Charter Oak, The (St. Helena, California) (4x)
French Laundry, The (Yountville, California)
Giugni’s Deli (St. Helena, California)
Gott’s (St. Helena, California) (2x)
Mizaki (Los Cabos, Mexico)
Model Bakery (St. Helena, California (5x)
Restaurant at Meadowood, The (St. Helena, California)
Restaurant at Meadowood, The (St. Helena, California; The Twelve Days of Christmas: Camara, Shields, Calvert, Avillez, Park, Chan, Nørregaard, Williams, Charles, Lee, Cantu, and Kostow)
Tartine Sycamore (Los Angeles, California) (2x)

Tarpon

Here is a catalog of my prior year-end posts:

2011: suitcase party…
2012: foreign and domestic…
2013: blurred lines…
2014: leapfrogging… 
2015: fairytale…
2016: hemispheres and horizons… 
2017: an education…
2018: field and stream…

Lake Louise

* You can listen to Jeremy Irons narrate the entire tour of the abbey through the Westminster app, which you can download to your smartphone.

Photos: “Victory of Alexander over the Caesars” by Verrio – the grand staircase to King William III’s apartments at Hampton Court Palace; the stained glass windows at la Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain; the house of Ernest Hemingway in Key West, Florida; in the garden at The Umstead Hotel & Spa in Cary, North Carolina; in-room breakfast at The Plaza in New York, New York; a fox hunt at Field & Fire, Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina; hams hanging at Allan Benton’s smokehouse in Madisonville, Tennessee; in the rick house at Buffalo Trace with Julian van Winkle, Frankfort, Kentucky; el Nacional in Barcelona, Spain; Kim Dolva at Alouette in Copenhagen, Denmark; the great hall at Hatfield House in Hatfield, The United Kingdom; pastries at Violet Bakery in London; lunch at the counter at Flor in London; the “Coronation Portrait” of Elizabeth I at the National Portrait Gallery in London; Felix Roasting Co. in New York, New York; Bookbinders at Hudson Yards in New York, New York; Katianna and John Hong at The American Restaurant in Kansas City, Missouri; Sarah Steffan at The Restaurant at 1900 in Fairway, Kansas; the latticed dining room at Brennan’s in New Orleans, Louisiana; Richard Hart at Hart Bageri in Copenhagen, Denmark; Joshua Skenes pulling in a giant tarpon in the Florida flats; and a frozen Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada. 

rumination 38: bonfire of the vanities…

$
0
0

All first-year law school students in the United States are introduced to American jurisprudence through six, core courses: Constitutional Law, Tort Law, Property Law, Contract Law, Civil Procedure, and some form of legal research and writing. Almost all law schools also require a course on the federal rules of evidence (commonly known simply as Evidence) at some point – whether in the first or second year.  

For reasons I never bothered to investigate or resolve, my law school didn’t require Evidence. The closest I ever came to the subject was when I clerked for a federal judge one summer. And, in truth, I was thrilled to escape the requirement, as I had no ambitions as a litigator – that’s the type of lawyer who goes to court and therefore, should know something about the rules of evidence. 

Actually, if I were to be frank, I had no ambitions of practicing law at all. My only goal when I graduated was climbing out of the giant crater of student loan debt I had dug for myself. So, forced to practice for financial reasons, I took the path of least resistance as a transactional lawyer in a big law firm – that’s the type who sits in an office and reads and writes contracts, which for me involved mostly moving zeroes around for other people.

But even before I got around to practicing law, I quickly realized why most law schools require Evidence.  Even if you don’t plan on ever stepping foot in a courtroom, but do plan on practicing law, you need to pass the bar exam. And the federal rules of evidence are tested on the bar exam of all 50 states. 

A quiet look of horror rippled across the faces of those around me in bar review – that’s a cram course usually taken right after law school that helps prepare aspiring lawyers to sit for the bar exam – when they found out I hadn’t taken Evidence (in addition to an array of other subjects being tested, like Commercial Paper and Secured Transactions, neither of which I had ever heard).  One woman winced. Their law schools had taken a far more practical approach to legal education and required all, if not most of the courses that would be covered on the exam.   

The boogeyman of the federal rules of evidence, as I would quickly learn, is the hearsay rule, which, like the plotline of the movie “Inception,” is a nightmarish labyrinth of rules within rules, and exceptions within exceptions, and even rules regarding double hearsay – you guessed it, that’s hearsay within hearsay. Whereas most bar exam subjects were quickly reviewed and dispatched within a morning or afternoon, two days of bar review were devoted to the federal rules of evidence, with an entire day focused on the hearsay rule alone.  Since I foolishly never elected to take the class, it was a daunting crash course for me.  

In practical reality, I never touched the rules of evidence again after the bar exam.  But in retrospect, I do understand why the subject is tested by every state, and why I should have taken the course, even if I never planned on sitting for the bar.  Along with the other compulsory subjects in law schools, our state and federal rules of evidence are a part of the bedrock of American jurisprudence. We are a free society that places such high value on the integrity of innocence that we have devised an elaborate system of safety belts and suspenders to help ensure that guilt is reserved only for those who are truly guilty. This is a good thing.  

But, the system is not perfect, partly because humans are not perfect. The system fails us sometimes. And sometimes, we fail ourselves. There are countless stories of guilt that goes unpunished, and even more horrifying, wrongful conviction of the innocent.  

Why am I telling you all of this? 


We have all read the headlines, the allegations, the lurid details, and have experienced the outrage: some from afar, for many, up close.  There is discrimination. There is harassment.  There is inequity.  There is abuse. 

Yes, these things exist.  I know they do because I have friends and co-workers, siblings and parents, who have experienced them.  These things have existed for quite a while.  And unfortunately, they’ll probably be around for a quite a while too.  Of course, that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t try to eliminate them as best we can.  As I have written on this blog before: “If anything positive has come out of all of this outrage, it is an increased awareness of the everyday reality and struggle of classes overlooked or repressed, and in some cases, abused.  After all, aspiration for meritocracy is merely a platitude if the opportunity to merit is systematically uneven.  We must constantly strive to even the playing field for all.”

But, in that previous rumination, I also asked: At what cost, and by what methods?  

Certainly, some are guilty.  These people should be afraid. They should be reported, evidence presented, and if proven true, they should be made to atone.

But many are not guilty.  So, they should not be afraid.  

And yet they are. Very, very afraid. 

Sadly, the federal rules of evidence don’t apply in the court of public opinion, where charges can be thrown around wantonly, where words are misused or assigned new meanings for the benefit of some, and to the detriment of others.  In the court of public opinion, context is often disregarded or selectively presented, and sometimes purposely erased.  Hearsay is not only allowed, but amplified. And because of all of this, allegations alone often suffice as evidence.  

The pile-on is swift and cruel, and often the verdict is fatal.  When it’s not, the accused is often bullied into recanting crimes they never committed. This isn’t justice. This is Jacobinism. 

As if the restaurant industry weren’t already hard enough, it has now become a minefield, where many are tip-toeing around, terrified of inadvertently stepping in the wrong place or crossing a tripwire so thin or so arbitrarily placed that it might as well be invisible. And, because the stakes are so high, few are willing to talk about anything honestly, not to mention openly, anymore. 

This is madness. This isn’t right. 

How do we solve problems if we shout at each other from the shores of clear contrast, and aren’t willing to wade into the grey waters in between?  


What’s the difference between demanding and unreasonable? Where do we draw the line between discipline and abuse?  At what point does a high-pressure environment turn toxic?  (Have you seen the movie “Whiplash?”)

Is it financially feasible for all restaurants – large and small, urban and rural, casual and posh – to remove tipping, or to move to all-inclusive pricing? If so, what would that require?  

What are you really doing to even the wages between the front and the back of the house?  

Is it actually wrong to serve a canapé that looks like a coronavirus?  Or is it merely bizarre, and perhaps a touch gauche?  Or is it provocative, or playful? 

Where do we draw the borders between stealing, borrowing, and reverence?  If a Korean-American chef makes his fortune off of selling Japanese ramen, is that appropriation or enthusiasm?   

What is the role of a restaurant critic? Is it to inform or opine, or both?  Is it to educate or tear down?  Should a restaurant critic be a consumer advocate or an industry cheerleader? Can she be both?  Can he criticize the existence of a restaurant right after it closed? If not, why? 

Is it responsible for chefs or restaurateurs to over-leverage their restaurants? Or is the restaurant industry one big risk factory, in which all who enter should be issued caveats emptor?    


If an awards committee is forced to admit, or suddenly realizes that there has been longstanding, systemic injustice within the industry, does that nullify its awards?  Should the committee recall all the medals from the past, or just some of them?  If so, are all of those who took part in the awards, and those who cheered and celebrated the winners complicit?  That’s a lot of people. That’s nearly every one of us.   

Sometimes, the answers are pretty clear.  Sometimes, they aren’t.  And sometimes, we’re unwilling to ask the question because we know we won’t like the answer. That’s cowardice.  

We need to ask the hard questions and talk them through so that we can work towards meaningful solutions, and also to determine what is and isn’t a crime before we start condemning people.  But this requires us to lay down our weapons and listen to each other. If understanding is what we’re truly after, then context matters.  If fairness is a primary goal, then intent matters – it’s usually what separates guilt from innocence.  When it’s not, then an earnest apology is a good place to start.  And if doing better is the right direction, then forgiveness will be necessary.  

Instead, some have terrorized the rest into silence. Unsurprisingly, those who speak the loudest are still usually the ones who know the least.  I don’t need you to announce what you’re doing to further social justice, I need you to just do it.  That would be a great start.  

Those who cry the loudest for empathy are often among the least willing to give it. Those who caution against judging others are often the first in line to do it – which makes me wonder if they’re not also the ones with the most to hide: perhaps if I point enough fingers, everyone will be too distracted with others to notice what I’m doing.  

And the media – why are you even here anymore?  Food writers seem to rarely write about food. And those who claim to be journalists, many who smugly declare the high road of truth-telling, are actually riding the highways of hypocrisy, trafficking in shock and horror – setting little fires everywhere.  

Don’t fool yourselves: you’re not reforming the restaurant industry. You’re burning it down. 

But there’s good news. There are a lot of truly wonderful people in it, many of whom I am very lucky to know and with whom I get to work. They want to cook good food, and run good businesses so they can employ good people. They may not always say the right things – but who does in an era of shifting definitions? And they may not always get it right – but again, who does? However, they’ll usually be the first to admit it, and earnestly try to improve. They strive to be decent human beings, have good intentions, and are always looking for good solutions. They keep their heads down, and work very hard to make their corner of the industry a better place. Some go beyond, and try to help others – to raise the tide and lift the boats around them.

If everyone spent less time placing blame, and more time doing these things, imagine what could be accomplished.   

Of course, this isn’t to say that those of us who aren’t guilty should just mind our own business and do our best. As the rabbi philosopher Abraham Heschel sagely observed: “… in a free society, some are guilty, but all are responsible.”  

So yes, if you see something, say something. That’s what I’m doing here. But before you do, make sure you saw what you saw, and you’re saying what you’re saying. Bring your evidence, and let’s hear it out. The bad apples should be ejected. 

But that’s not what’s happening a lot of the time. We’re rummaging through carts and carts of good apples, finding some bad ones, but trying to throw out many others based on specious allegations, or because we simply don’t like the cut of their jib. And it’s becoming increasingly easy to do so, in part because everyone’s afraid to speak up. As long we’re not the target, it’s better to just go along with it. Injustice comes in many forms, and this is one of them.

In a free society, innocence should be the presumption, not guilt. But we’ve so twisted things around that almost the opposite has become the standard, which may explain why so many clamor to flood the airwaves with daily declarations and signals of just how not-bad they are. If only virtue were so easily achieved.

Perhaps this pandemic will force this industry to wake up to the fact that all are rowing the same boat.  And if everyone is to make it to the other side, then everyone had better start rowing in the same direction.  

The point is decency, not destruction, right?  The hope is for courage, not fear, right? The focus should be positivity, not negativity, right?  The destination should be joy, not joylessness, right? We want justice, not injustice, right?  You cannot achieve any of the former through any of the latter.  And yet, in so many ways, the latter is winning.  To answer the question I asked above: In a free society – and especially in an industry of people who purport to be stewards of hospitality – these costs are too high and these methods are unacceptable.

12 days of christmas: williams… (2019)

$
0
0

I first heard of Brady Williams when he was hired to become the head chef at Canlis in spring of 2015.  And since then, he has catapulted into the national spotlight as a rising star (twice a finalist in the Rising Star category for the James Beard Foundation Awards, and winning the James Beard Award for Best Chef Northwest in 2019).

Williams was the eighth chef to cook with chef Christopher Kostow at the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

Dinner started with a bracingly tart canapé of apple juice (I think it was slightly thickened with pectin) with small dices of crunchy kohlrabi.  It was bright start to dinner from Canlis pastry chef Crystal Chiu.

My favorite course from Williams was a porridge of Dungeness crab rice, which came sandwiched between two other seafood courses – an alabaster fist of cod pané from Kostow, served with a rich buttermilk and caviar sauce; and spiny lobster, which Williams served with fermented turnip and kani miso.

I really liked Kostow’s duck course.  The breast meat was sliced and served with cherries and wheat berries.  On the side, a warm cup of “duck tea, which was poured out of beautiful, vintage decanters. It was straightforward and comforting.

For dessert, Chiu presented a rather familiar couple – apples and cheddar – in new form. The two were set on brioche, and topped with wafer-thin sheet of toasted meringue.

From The Restaurant at Meadowood, a lovely parsnip tart, with its round, mellow sweetness providing an excellent background on which to showcase the aroma of freshly shaved white truffles.

This is the menu from Day 8 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Brady Williams (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Buckwheat
Rojo chiquito bean, green tea.
(Williams)

Buckwheat
Sea lettuce, marionberry.
(Williams)

Kohlrabi
Apple.
(Williams)

Sturgeon
Katsuobushi.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

1st Course
Daikon
Benne seed oil, pear.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Carrot
Chorizo, geoduck.
(Williams)

3rd Course
Cod
Buttermilk, caviar.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

4th Course
Dungeness
Crab rice.
(Williams)

5th Course
Spiny Lobster
Fermented turnip, kani miso.
(Williams)

6th Course
Duck Tea
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Duck
Cherry, celery, wheat berries.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

8th Course
Pork Collar
Squid beans.
(Williams)

9th Course
Cheddar
Apple, brioche.
(Williams)

10th Course
Parsnip Tart
White truffle.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine pairings.

Keller “Feuervogel,” Silvaner, 2015

Pichler, Riesling, 2016

Tablas Creek Vineyard, Esprit Blanc, 2017

Abbaye de Morgeot, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, 2017

Tatomer, Duvarita, Pinot Noir, 2013

La Jota Vineyard Co., Heritage Release, 2006

Day 8: Brady Williams

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)

Canlis.

Photos: Williams, Daniel Kim, and Zach Yoder in the garden; tart apple with kohlrabi by pastry chef Crystal Chiu of Canlis; Williams plating spiny lobster; cod with buttermilk and caviar by TRAM; duck tea by TRAM; cod with buttermilk by TRAM; Tyler Bentley torching meringue for cheddar and apple dessert; wine pairings, Brady Williams, Celeste Peralez, Crystal Chiu, and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Celest Peralez, Brady Williams, and Crystal Chiu.


12 days of christmas: charles… (2019)

$
0
0

I hadn’t heard of Jeremy Charles, or his restaurant Raymonds in Newfoundland.  But after doing a little reading, I uncovered an approach to cooking simpatico with my own perspective and preferences. In an age when social media make it easy for chefs to appear closer to nature, here you have a chef who seems genuinely so.  He doesn’t just hunt and fish to appear rugged and idyllic, or in parcel to a packaged narrative.  He hunts and fishes because that is a way of life in Newfoundland (it’s the only province of Canada where it’s legal to serve wild game in restaurants).

Charles cooked on the ninth night of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood with hosting chef Christopher Kostow.

I love Charles’s plainspokenness, which comes through in his cooking. There’s a broad-stroked appeal to it. You get it, for example, in his simplified version of “Jiggs dinner” – a traditional Newfoundland Sunday fare of boiled meat, often accompanied by a split-pea soup (oddly spelled “pease pudding”).  He stripped it down to bowl of fresh pasta cappelletti stuffed with pea mash, and a warm broth reminiscent of a meat boil.  It was tidy without being fussy, and yet evocative of the humble comfort of a Sunday supper.

So too was a plate of partridge, an unadorned portrait of upland woods: slices of the bird with a tender nugget of its heart, chanterelles, parsnip purée, and berries.

But his cooking was not without elegance. There was a fine, partridge liver mousse (waste not, want not), for example, that he piped into gougères; a canapé.  It was smooth and flavorful. And despite his rather unorthodox couplings – mousse heart and squid ink, or poundcake with blueberries and chanterelles – his food seemed entirely sensible.

Kostow waded out into field and stream with Charles with a menu that included foraged cauliflower mushroom with sumac (served as a canapé), and thick-cut slices of wild boar with apple mustard.

From the cold waters of the Pacific, there was Dungeness crab. And from the evergreen forests that surround The Restaurant at Meadowood, pine, which was infused into an ice cream sundæ.

5th Course: Partridge

This is the menu from Day 9 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Jeremy Charles (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Moose Consommé
Wild herbs.
(Charles)

Cauliflower Mushroom
Sumac.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Partridge Liver Profiteroles
(Charles)

Moose Heart
Currant, squid ink.
(Charles)

1st Course
Newfoundland Scallop
Smoked roe.
(Charles)

2nd Course
Dungeness Crab
Salsify, almond milk.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

3rd Course
Pea Pudding
Cappelletti.
(Charles)

4th Course
Black Cod
Pork, fava.
(Charles)

5th Course
Partridge
Parsnip, heart.
(Charles)

6th Course
Wild Boar
Apple mustard.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

7th Course
Blueberry
Chanterelle, pound cake.
(Charles)

8th Course
Pine Sundæ
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

9th Course
Chocolate Bay
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Wine pairings.

Domaine Patrick Baudouin “La Fresnaye,” Anjou.

Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet, Heré Souhaut

Hans Wirsching, Silvaner, 2017

Radio-Coteau, Chardonnay, Anderson Valley, 2015

Mascarello, Dolcetto d’Alba, 2017

Corra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2006

Day 9

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)

Antics.

Photos: Jeremy Charles, with Ross Larkin, Charlie Appel, and Zach Yoder in the garden; Charles at staff line-up; Charles and Larkin rolling pasta for cappelletti; Larkin plating blueberry poundcake dessert; black cod; partridge; wine pairings; Charles, Larkin and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Charles, Larkin, and Christopher Kostow.

12 days of christmas: lee… (2019)

$
0
0

On the recommendation of a friend during a three-day layover in Singapore, I had the pleasure of eating at Candlenut.  That was the summer of 2016, just before the Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore, where it would award chef Malcolm Lee and his Peranakan cooking a worthy star later that year.

Lee brought his Sino-Malay cuisine to The Restaurant at Meadowood on the tenth night of The Twelve Days of Christmas, where he cooked with hosting chef Christopher Kostow.

I am no expert on Peranakan cooking.  And although the home cooking of Singaporean aunties at church potlucks introduced me to this flavorful branch of Chinese cuisine, with its exotic spices and comforting gravies, I wasn’t aware of its origins, or that it had a name.

The Malay peninsula is a melting pot of cultures and ingredients – the husky spices of India; the fragrant herbs and shrimp paste of Southeast Asia; the meatiness of Indonesia, and the fiery chilis and soothing coconut milk of the tropics all hung on the backbone of Chinese cooking. The confluence is unique, and its results beguiling.

There are satays and curries, both of which appeared on Lee’s side of the menu.  Lamb satays and kueh pie tee cups of Lee’s yeye’s (grandfather’s) curry were served as canapés, as well as a version of Lee’s mother’s curry, which appeared as kueh bakar berlauk, a savory custard cake.

The main courses were a parade of comfort, from a yellow coconut curry of Dungeness crab, to saucey beef rendang served with rice dyed blue with pea flowers.

One of the many highlights for me was a steaming bowl of fish maw soup, with prawn and chicken. The smell of the broth in the kitchen, as it simmered, really did a number on me – whiffs of my childhood.  It did not disappoint at the table.

Another highlight was Christopher Kostow’s squab pithivier, which he sliced and plated with a rich, black truffle X.O. sauce.  That was tasty.

The meal ended with some of my favorite desserts of this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas.  The Restaurant at Meadowood presented a carousel of citrus desserts, including a fragrant custard with olive oil.

Lee served a dark and moody ice cream of buah keluak – a poisonous fruit that is detoxified through fermentation – with chocolate.  I had a version of this dessert at Candlenut.  And, perhaps my favorite part of the entire meal, were the cubes of kueh salat that capped off the meal – sweet, sticky rice paved with a layer of coconut milk and pandan custard. It was paired with an immensely floral and fragrant tea (a special mix made for Candlenut), which, like the rice in both the rendang and kueh salat, was tinted blue with pea flowers.  I raved about it so much, that Lee’s girlfriend kindly gifted me an extra packet of the tea.

This is the menu from Day 10 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Malcolm Lee (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Kueh Pie Tee
Yeye’s curry.
(Lee)

Nika Salad Roll
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

Kueh Bakar Berlauk
Mum’s curry.
(Lee)

Charcoal Lamb Satay
(Lee)

1st Course
Caviar, Sunchoke
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Fish Maw Soup
Prawn, chicken.
(Lee)

3rd Course
Dungeness Crab
Turmeric, coconut curry.
(Lee)

4th Course
Black Cod
Chuan chuan spinach.
(Lee)

5th Course
Squab Pithivier
Truffle X.O.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

6th Course
Beef Rendang
Blue pea flower rice.
(Lee)

7th Course
Olio Nuovo
Local citrus.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

8th Course
Buah Keluak Ice Cream
Chocolate.
(Lee)

9th Course
Kueh Salat
(Lee)

Wine pairings.

Pichler, Riesling, 2016

Domaine Maurice Schoech, Pinot Gris, Grand Cru Mambourg, 2015

Le Clarté de Haute Brion, 2012

Frog’s Leap, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 2017

Dirty & Rowdy, Mouvedre, Evangelho Vineyard, 2018

Philip Togni Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2005

Day 10: Malcolm Lee

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)
Malcolm Lee (Candlenut; Singapore)

Malcolm Lee and Christopher Kostow

Photos: Malcolm Lee, Christopher Kostow, and Daniel Kim plating; dungeness crab course; Rya Sohn plating kueh pie tee; kueh salat; satays on the grill; “Olio Nuovo” with local citruses; Buah Keluak ice cream with chocolate; wine pairings; Lee with the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Lee with Kostow.

12 days of christmas: cantu… (2019)

$
0
0

It seems only a short while ago that Val Cantu was hosting a pop-up in San Francisco.  Those early previews of Cantu’s modern, but studied approach to Mexican cooking generated considerable excitement.  Before I knew it, he had opened a small restaurant in the Mission and earned a Michelin star.  It was in those early days of the restaurant that I first visited Cantu at Californios.

The penultimate chef to cook at this year’s Twelve Days of Christmas, Cantu joined hosting chef Christopher Kostow on the eleventh night.

Cantu issued the longest menu of the twelve nights.  The half dozen canapés alone – all by Cantu – were a feast. Highlights included kale tetelas filled with goat cheese, which Cantu griddled on a giant comal; a juicy squab taco; and short rib mole negro, which was served on a tortilla with shaved white truffles.

His main courses were just as colorful and diverse. There was a banana tamal with black truffles. The packet was opened table-side and crowned with caviar.

There were tender slices of abalone, shingled in a giant shell with cilantro butter.  And a bright ceviche of buri (Japanese amberjack) interleaved with a rainbow of citrus suprêmes, and garnished with slivers of jalapeño.

Canapé: Tetela of Local Kales and Goat Cheese  Canapé: Squab Taco

The Restaurant at Meadowood served a rich dish of smoked cod in a buttery sauce with soured corn. That was fantastic, as was the restaurant’s dessert of sweet potato.  The shock of bright, neon-orange flesh breaking out of its dusty, charred jacket was an arresting sight.  It was flambéed with tequila and sauced with tres leches caramel.

This is the menu from Day 11 of the Twelve Days of Christmas with guest chef Val Cantu (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):


Canapés

Green Garlic Sope
Brassicas, trout roe.
(Cantu)

White Sturgeon Taquito
Chives, caviar.
(Cantu)

Tetela of Local Kales
Goat cheese.
(Cantu)

Squab Taco & Squab Broth
(Cantu)

Short Rib Mole Negro
White truffle.
(Cantu)

Aztec Fuji Apple Sorbet
Key lime.
(Cantu)

1st Course
Butter Clam
Ourzak.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

2nd Course
Black Truffle & Banana Tamal
Caviar.
(Cantu)

3rd Course
Ceviche of Buri
(Cantu)

4th Course
Aguachile of Cactus
(Cantu)

5th Course
Oysters en Michelada
(Cantu)

6th Course
Crab Tostada
(Cantu)

7th Course
Abalone in Cilantro Butter
(Cantu)

8th Course
Smoked Cod
Soured corn.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

9th Course
Pork Collar
Avocado leaf.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

10th Course
Sweet Potato
Tequila, caramel tres leches.
(The Restaurant at Meadowood)

11th Course
Sweet Tostada
Grapefruit, anise.
(Cantu)

12th Course
Oblea of Green Apple
Bon bons.
(Cantu)

Wine pairings.

Domaine des Tours, Réserve 2014

COS, Zibibo Ampora, 2017

Assyrtiko

Kistler, “les Noisetiers,” Sonoma Coast, 2015

Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1993

Roccolo Grassi, “La Broia,” 2015

Day 11: Val Cantu

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)
Malcolm Lee (Candlenut; Singapore)
Val Cantu (Californios; San Francisco, California)

Kostow, Cantu

Photos: Pork collar on the Josper; Val Cantu making tetelas at the comal; caviar for the black truffle banana tamal; tetelas on the pass; squab tacos; shaving black truffle over short rib with mole negro; Cantu finishing black truffle banana tamal; wine pairings; Cantu and the team at The Restaurant at Meadowood; Christopher Kostow and the team from Californios.

12 days of christmas: kostow (2019)

$
0
0

The last day of the Twelve Days of Christmas is a tangle of excitement and exhaustion that is well-documented in previous years on this blog (a complete, hyperlinked list of every single dinner since 2012 can be found at the bottom of this post).  For the cooks there’s the afterglow of having hosted eleven guest chefs, and the relief of having the kitchen back to themselves. There’s the anticipation of the busiest night of the series – seats at this finalé, starring host chef Christopher Kostow and his kitchen team, reliably sell out faster than any other night. And there are goodbyes put on hold, while every corner is deep-cleaned in preparation for the restaurant’s brief holiday closure.

For the young and new, it is an initiation to a ritual cherished by those who, like me,  have been there before.  However unslept and longing for home, in these final hours, I always harbor a sadness that another magical December in Napa – this, my seventh – draws to a close.

This year, on the twelfth night, Christopher Kostow marked his 132nd dinner of the Twelve Days of Christmas at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

6th Course: Stuffed Quail
3rd Course: Charlie's Cheese

For years now, Kostow has used the last night to showcase his cooks.  The menu is a culmination of weeks of brainstorming, trials and errors, and an abundance of delicious triumphs.

If you watch closely throughout each year’s Twelve Days of Christmas, you’ll find hints and glimmers of the final menu embedded in the first eleven dinners.

Butter clam – a canapé on the twelfth night – with ourzak seasoning and celery had appeared in various iterations throughout this year’s series, as did the “last bites,” a changing carousel of fruit candies, which, on this final night, included quince pâté de fruit, braided cherry “Twizzlers,” and chocolate “figs.”

Other dishes were saved just for this last dinner, like the one showcasing gorgeous Oxheart carrots from the restaurant’s garden. These elephantine roots were presented as meaty slabs of “prime rib,” alongside creamy horseradish and buttery crumpets.  It was soulful and playful; a surprisingly convincing proxy.

6th Course: Stuffed Quail
Lydia Lee

There were two highlights for me.

I have long-admired Kostow’s way with fowl. The stuffed quail he presented this night was no exception to his record.  Each plate had a half of a stuffed breast with California rice (a shorter, softer grain) and some gravy. All of it was blanketed with white truffles, shaved table side.  It was a comforting tuck, simple yet exquisite.

The other dish that really caught my imagination was Jacqueline Dasha’s version of poire tapée. This is an ancient technique from the Loire Valley in which pears are cored and dehydrated near a fire, flattened, and then rehydrated (often with wine, or in syrup).  Dasha’s modified version had the fleshy pears flambéed in dark caramel and spooned warm over bees wax ice cream.

4th Course: Black Cod
Flambé

This is the menu from Day 12 of the Twelve Days of Christmas by Christopher Kostow and his team a The Restaurant at Meadowood (click here for all of the photos from this dinner):

Menu

Twelve Days of Christmas
Chef


Canapés

Chestnut Beignet

Miso, black truffle.

Grilled Butter Clam

Ourzak, celeries.

1st Course

Smoked Trout

Persimmon, trout roe,
fermented onion, yogurt.

2nd Course

Dungeness Crab

Turnip, fresh pecan oil.

3rd Course

Charlie’s Cheese

Crispy bread, caviar.

4th Course

Black Cod

Steamed in mustard greens, cultured butter.

5th Course

Oxheart Carrot “Prime Rib”

Horseradish cream, crumpets.

6th Course

Stuffed Quail

California rice, white truffle.

7th Course

Pork Collar

Sour cherry, black olives.

8th Course

Sunchoke Trifle

Russian apple.

9th Course

Tapée Pear

Beeswax ice cream.

10th Course

“Last Bites”

Quince pâté de fruit, sunchoke macarons,
chocolate “figs,” cherry “Twizzlers,” and citrus.


Wine Pairings

Peter Jakob Kühn, Riesling Kabinett, 2018

Gemina, 2017

Domaine de Saint-Just, Brézé

Ramey Chardonnay, Ritchie Vineyard, 2016

Gravner

La Guiraude, Crozes-Hermitage, Alain Graillot, 2016

Shafer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, 1993

Wine pairings.
Day 12

Below are links to my posts and photos from all Twelve Days of Christmas dinners I have attended. Each chef is listed with the restaurant with which they were cooking at the time they participated in the event (some have moved on to other projects and restaurants).

2012

Scott Anderson (Elements; Princeton, New Jersey)
John & Karen Shields (Formerly of Townhouse; Chilhowie, Virginia)
Phillip Foss (EL Ideas; Chicago, Illinois)
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski (State Bird Provisions; San Francisco, California)
Jason Franey (Canlis Restaurant; Seattle, Washinton)
Matthias Merges (Yusho; Chicago, Illinois)
Mori Onodera (Formerly of Mori Sushi; Los Angeles, California)
James Syhabout (Commis; Oakland, California)
Nick Anderer (Maialino; New York, New York)
David Toutain (Agapé Substance; Paris, France)
Josh Habiger & Erik Anderson (The Catbird Seat; Nashville Tennessee)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2013

Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Portland, Oregon & New York, New York)
Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó; Santiago, Chile)
Carlo Mirarchi (Blanca and Roberta’s; Brooklyn, New York)
Tim Cushman (O Ya; Boston, Massachusetts)
Ashley Christensen (Poole’s Diner; Raleigh, North Carolina)
David Chang (Momofuku; New York, New York)
Matthew Accarrino (SPQR; San Francisco, California)
Mark Ladner & Brooks Headley (Del Posto; New York, New York)
Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Nicolaus Balla & Cortney Burns (Bar Tartine; San Francisco, California)
David Kinch (Manresa; Los Gatos, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2014

Matthew Orlando (Amass; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Frank Castranovo & Frank Falcinelli (Frankies 457, Prime Meats; New York, New York)
Kobe Desramaults (In de Wulf; Dranouter, Belgium)
Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère; La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, France)
Blaine Wetzel (Willows Inn; Lummi Island, Washington)
Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s; Portland, Oregon)
Virgilio Martinez (Central; Lima, Peru)
Grant Achatz (Alinea; Chicago, Illinois)
Corey Lee (Benu; San Francisco, California)
Esben Holmboe Bang (Maaemo; Oslo, Norway)
Ignacio Mattos (Estela; New York, New York)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2015

Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad; New York, New York)
Nenad Mlinarevic (Focus; Vitznau, Switzerland)
Christian Puglisi (relæ; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil; Mexico City, Mexico)
Joshua Skenes (Saison; San Francisco, California)
Matthew Wilkinson (Pope Joan; Melbourne, Australia)
Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan ([One]; Chapel Hill, North Carolina)
Isaac McHale (The Clove Club; London, The United Kingdom)
Kyle Connaughton (Single Thread; Healdsburg, California)
Atsushi Tanaka (A.T. Restaurant; Paris, France)
Justin Yu (Oxheart; Houston, Texas)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2017

Mark Lundgaard Nielsen (Kong Hans Kælder; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Manish Mehrotra (Indian Accents; New Dehli, India; New York, New York; London, U.K.)
Jeremiah Stone & Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (Contra & Wildair; New York, New York)
Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon & Tallula’s; Santa Monica, California)
Ben Sukle (birch & Oberlin; Providence, Rhode Island)
Sean Brock (McCrady’s, McCrady’s Tavern, Husk, & Minero; Charleston, South Carolina)
Yoshiaki Takazawa (Takazawa; Tokyo, Japan)
Thomas Keller (The French Laundry; Yountville, California)
Eric Werner (Hartwood; Tulum, Mexico)
Jock Zonfrillo (Orana; Adelaide, Australia)
Alexandre Couillon (La Marine; Noirmoutier, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2018

Jose Enrique (Jose Enrique; San Juan, Puerto Rico)
David Pynt (Burnt Ends; Singapore)
Jessica Largey (Simone; Los Angeles, California)
James Lowe (Lyle’s; London, The United Kingdom)
Kamilla Seidler (formerly of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia; Copenhagen, Denmark)
Byung-jin Kim (Gaon; Seoul, South Korea)
Wojciech Modest Amaro (Atelier Amaro; Warsaw, Poland)
Justin Cogley (Auberine; Carmel, California) & Trevor Moran (Nashville, Tennessee)
Michael Tusk (Cotogna and Quince; San Francisco, California)
Ana Ros (Hiša Franko; Kobarid, Slovenia)
Sota Atsumi (Maison, opening in 2019; Paris, France)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

2019

Gabriela Camara (Contramar; Mexico City, Mexico/Cala; San Francisco, California)
John and Karen Shields (Smyth, and The Loyalist; Chicago, Illinois)
Daniel Calvert (Belon; Hong Kong)
José Avillez (Belcanto; Lisbon, Portugal)
Junghyun Park (atomix and atoboy; New York, New York)
Jeremy Chan (Ikoyi; London, The United Kingdom)
Nicolai Nørregaard (kadeau; Bornholm and Copenhagen, Denmark)
Brady Williams (Canlis; Seattle, Washington)
Jeremy Charles (Raymonds; St. John’s, Newfoundland; Canada)
Malcolm Lee (Candlenut; Singapore)
Val Cantu (Californios; San Francisco, California)
Christopher Kostow (The Restaurant at Meadowood; St. Helena, California)

The Twelfth Night

Photos: Daniel Kim frying trout skin; Jacqueline Dasha shaving white truffle; caviar and crispy bread with Charlie’s cheese; stuffed quail with rice; Lydia Lee on mop duty; black cod with mustard greens; Tyler Bentley and poires tapée flambée, wine pairings; the staff at The Restaurant at Meadowood; the dining room at The Restaurant at Meadowood.

travel: in dazzling relief… (2019)

$
0
0


Cologne and wood smoke hit me as I peered through my camera for the first time in weeks. The lingering evidence of where I had last used it was a jarring telescope of just how far away two months ago feels.

As I tap out this tardy review of 2019 from my fastness on the edge of the prairie plains, I have been isolating at home now for 67 days.

From here, I’ve watched the cycles of grief and panic play out online as a generation, spoilt by decades of nearly unhindered convenience, grapples with stoppage and sacrifice. I’m quietly horrified by the daily doses of trauma porn that have streamed across our screens, and the reaction among those who have succumbed to them. Having little patience for doom, I’ve turned off the spook show and look to the better angels among us for the kind of sensible solutions and hope that will carry us out of this pandemic. Thankfully, there is plenty of triumph to be found – among the frontlines and the innovators, and in the everyday acts of kindness and generosity that get drowned out by the Chicken Littles of our day.

La Sagrada Familia

Suddenly confronted, in stark terms, with the degree to which my role in society is “non-essential,” I am now increasingly grateful for the luxury of having been able to indulge my non-essentialness for so long. But being sidelined during this pandemic has heightened a sense of uselessness, an unsettling feeling at a time when there is so much to be done for the world.

So I’ve focused on bettering my little corner, and have learned to be useful in it. Fortuitously, this pause has enabled me to minister to a string of scary, family health crises that would have been unthinkably stressful to handle from the road, not to mention during a viral outbreak that preys upon the compromised.  It has also allowed me time to address a backlog of projects that requires the kind of stationary attention that had been sorely lacking in my life.  Most of them have been mundane tasks, like cleaning out closets and backing up hard drives: my archive of nearly two decades’ worth of photographs and data has finally found a safer, second home up in the cloud.  Some have been fun detours, to add color to the blandness of endless isolation: between FaceTime and Zoom chats, I’ve finally gotten around to watching the “Sopranos,” for example, and finishing Ron Chernow’s epic encomium on Alexander Hamilton. And I’ve happily disappeared for hours into old Graham Norton shows, and geeking and gawking on Hodinkee.

But the bulk of my attention has been devoted to quiet creativity.  I’ve updated my photography website. It now more accurately reflects recent work, some of which I will write about here shortly.  Having toyed with starting a podcast, I’m finally finding audio hardware arriving at my doorstep (advice and suggestions are welcome).  And, most importantly for you, the readers of this blog, changes are afoot: this is the last time you’ll be reading a post from this site, as you’ve known it. Thanks to a chance meeting and the generosity of WordPress, which has hosted this site for well over a decade, this blog is getting a much needed facelift.  The next post you read will be on a far more handsome and robust platform, which, I am hoping, will encourage me to deliver more content more consistently. This blog has been the most regrettable collateral damage of my growing busyness over the years – 2019 saw the least number of posts since I started writing here some 15 years ago.  And I intend to use this relaunch to correct that.

Ernest Hemingway House

Unlike previous years, there were no far-flung excursions to exotic lands: I didn’t perch on the rim of a great waterfall in Africa, or climb temple ruins in the jungles of Southeast Asia, like in 2017.  There were no caribou hunts in Greenland as in 2018, or Antipodean adventures, like I had in 2016.

Yet, framed against the sobering backdrop of present events, 2019 now shines in particularly dazzling relief.  

In the seven years since I started transitioning to professional photography, last year was the first year in which I achieved a critical mass of work. A calendar that began to brim with clients in 2017 finally overflowed in 2019.  Reaching that tipping point has not only been professionally satisfying but incredibly edifying as well.  I marvel at the growing cast of extraordinary people that now surrounds me, some of the brightest and most successful in the culinary and hospitality industries.  Working alongside them and learning from them has been as humbling as it has been rewarding.

Untitled

Due to a tightly packed schedule, most of my leisure travel in 2019 was piggy-backed on to work trips. But I was able to wedge in a few personal detours, like a brief escape to Whidbey Island to see my godchildren, a soul-satisfying week of fly-fishing in Montana, quick hits in New Orleans and Chicago, and celebrating with friends at weddings in Los Angeles and Los Cabos.

Altogether, 2019 took me to a score of cities scattered across more than a dozen states and six countries (propelling me over the one million milestone of cumulative travel with Delta Airlines).  Obviously, there’s not enough room for all of it in this post – I really should have done a better job of issuing updates throughout the year.  Instead, as in previous years, I provide an abbreviated tour, mostly for my own record.

While most of my photography work revolves around food and beverage, I am thankful that many of my clients have supported me in exploring other orbits. Indeed, they’ve not only allowed but have encouraged me to give in to the gravitational pull of editorial, as well outdoor and lifestyle content. And I love it.

In 2019, I significantly enlarged my footprint within the hotel industry.

I worked with properties that ranged from small, privately owned luxury hotels, like The Umstead – a gem in Cary, North Carolina – to the global Fairmont family of hotels, which stretches from Brazil to Singapore.  In 2019, I was hired to photograph for restaurants at its properties across Canada, including the Palliser in Calgary, the flagship Royal York in Toronto, as well as the storied landmark The Plaza Hotel in New York City, now under the Fairmont umbrella.  I was also brought in to photograph a corporate campaign to launch a brand-wide cocktail program, which took me to the legendary The Savoy in London (the magnificently preserved, lacquer-paneled lifts are stunning). That was a treat.

And, I eagerly returned to work with Blackberry Farm and Blackberry Mountain for a second year. These sister properties, on sprawling acreage in the Smoky Mountains, represent the pinnacle of American hospitality.  I’ve enjoyed experiencing and capturing the seasonality of the Appalachia, and seeing how each property adapts everything, from food service to decor and activities, accordingly. I was also flattered to be asked to contribute an article to the their inaugural issue of Blackberry Magazine, which launched in the second half of last year.

Fox hunt.

For years, the bulk of my work came from a core coterie that has become a beloved part of my annual routine.  They are among my earliest and most loyal supporters, and have not only become colleagues, but friends. They decorate my calendar perennially with shiny objects that keep me motivated and excited throughout.

I was in Minneapolis thrice to photograph for Gavin Kaysen’s Synergy Series, which returned for a third season, after going dark in 2018 while he was opening his latest restaurant Demi.

I continued photographing for Joshua Skenes and his growing roster of restaurants in California.  In 2019, I spent quite a bit of time photographing for both Angler restaurants – the one in San Francisco, and the second one that opened in Los Angeles last June.  I also spent a week with him being broiled in the staggering heat of the Florida flats in search of tarpon. Seven days of nothing ended in a majestic, 160 lb. beauty that he brought to boat on day eight. It was worth the wait.

I went not once, but twice to Palmetto Bluff, the idyllic Lowcountry haven spread across 20,000 acres of coastal South Carolina. In January, Courtney Hampson tapped me for a new event that she was hosting, “Field + Fire.” It’s an outdoorsman’s extravaganza that includes falconry, clay shooting, and a fox hunt (delicious food and great music are, of course, de rigueur). In November, I returned for the ninth year to photograph “Music To Your Mouth.”

December was spent at Napa Valley, where I have been spoiled working with Christopher and Martina Kostow, and their amazing teams at The Restaurant at Meadowood.  This was my seventh year photographing “The Twelve Days of Christmas.

And, in a very different field, I marked my fifth year at Drift, and my fourth year with its sister magazine, Ambrosia. I’m very lucky to be included in the incredibly talented editorial staff, which includes the founder Adam Goldberg, the Creative Director Daniela Velasco, and the Executive Editor Elyssa Goldberg.

Benton's ham.

In the rickhouse.

Between work trips, I managed to check off a number of bucket list items.

I finally set eyes on the Canadian Rockies in Banff National Park, and walked across the legendary Lake Louise. In early April, the glacial reservoir is a frozen expanse hemmed in by steep banks of pine.

I went to the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville, Tennessee and learned a bit of country music history. On the other side of that state, Sharon Benton taught me how to make biscuits at their home in Madisonville and sent me off with a duffle bursting with Allan’s prized ham.

My first trip to Louisville, Kentucky included hot browns and plenty of bourbon, appropriate accessories for a boys’ trip.  We drove to Frankfort and visited Julian van Winkle, who was kind enough to show us around the distillery at Buffalo Trace, where is family’s bourbon is made.

In nearby Bardstown, we toured Willett Distillery, and met with Drew Kulsveen, the master distiller, who generously invited us to join him for lunch afterward at the newly opened bar on property.  John Sleasman, who I last saw cooking at McCrady’s, is now chef there. He makes a killer egg salad sandwich. The burger ain’t too shabby either.

I spent my birthday with friends in Spain. We started on the northern Basque coast, where we stuffed our faces with jamón and turbot, and juicy strips of chuleta. On our drive to Barcelona, we crossed over into France and stopped for oysters in Biarritz. A couple of hours later, we took a crisp, afternoon breather in the mountain enclave of Andorra, where we happened to catch the FIS Alpine Skiing World Cup. That was a three-country day.

In September, I made my annual pilgrimage to Copenhagen.  It had been a full year since my prior visit, and I missed it.  I caught up with dear friends, and ate at my favorite restaurants, as well as a couple of newcomers, including Alouette, Nick Curtin’s Michelin-starred perch in the warehouse district of Islands Brygge, and at Yves Le Lay’s cozy new francophone à terre, near Kongens Nytorv.  The weather being glorious at that time of year, I spent all my free time wheeling about the city, taking leisurely bike rides to Juno Bakery in Østerbro for cardamom buns, and Richard Hart’s eponymous bageri in Frederiksberg for cookies and coffee.

If there was one centerpiece to my travels, it was London.  I visited twice.

In the spring, I went with friends from Kansas City who had never been to England.

We visited Hatfield House, the glorious Jacobean site of sororal feuds and the seat of the ancient Cecil dynasty.  We also toured the massive fortress at Dover Castle and the imposing Tudor court at Hampton Palace. Especially unforgettable was the warren of underground tunnels of Churchill’s War Rooms – an inspiring reminder of the will for victory.

With my friends, I revisited Windsor Castle, paid our respects to the Duke of Wellington at St. Paul’s Cathedral, and admired the glittering Crown Jewels, which I had not seen since college. (They’ve installed people movers to funnel and keep the foot traffic moving. It being a surprisingly slow day, my friends and I rode it like a carousel, back and forth for repeated inspections of those shiny objects.)  And I dragged them to the abbey at Westminster, where I was entranced by Jeremy Irons on the audio guide, narrating a millennium of history in that deep, lazy drool of his.  It’s disgusting the way he yawns from one word to the next. I love it.*

We had slip sole at The Sportsman, and bacon butties and kippers for breakfast at The Hand and Flowers in Marlow.

In London, we grazed our way from Shoreditch to Mayfair.  There was a beautifully burnished pig and trotter pie at St. John Bread & Wine.  We drowned big, ripe strawberries in cream at The Goring, and had a lovely courtyard breakfast at Rochelle Canteen, where I returned the next day for a nicely cooked sole with velvety dulse butter.

We went to the River Café, which is one of the first restaurants in London where I dined as an adult. That plate of ricotta gnudi alone, humming with nutmeg, is worth the trek to Hammersmith. I learned afterward that there is a strict curfew in that neighborhood, which explains the abrupt end to our night. The bill was collected as hastily as it had been dropped off, and we were practically ushered out while eating our desserts.

And there was an uproariously fun night at le Gavroche, where we were waited upon by identical twins. Dressed distinctly in matching uniforms, with thick-rimmed glasses, they served us one at a time for the first half of the dinner – never appearing together. Imagine our confusion when we eventually looked up from our table to see them standing next to each other.  I’m convinced the mischief was premeditated.  We laughed for days. 

Rainbow.

In the fall, I returned to London on my own.  A pit stop between destinations – let’s just call it what it was: a fashion errand – gave me an excuse to visit a few restaurants that had come to my attention. I swung by James Lowe’s new eatery Flor at Borough Market for breakfast (terrific pastries). By chance I caught him for a chat, and stayed for lunch, which I thoroughly enjoyed.  I also had dinner at Ikoyi at St. James’s to get a preview of what chef Jeremy Chan might be cooking at the Twelve Days of Christmas later in December.  You’ll find commentary on both meals in this prior post.

I visited Kensington Palace. Did you know: at the death of King George IV, he and his six brothers had fathered no fewer than 50 illegitimate children, but had not one legitimate male heir among them? Guys, you had one job…

I also carved out an afternoon for the National Portrait Gallery, where I gushed at an embarrassment of Holbein (the Younger), which littered this incredible collection of art (I found more of the meister’s work next door at the National Gallery).  I worshiped a trove of paintings by Sir Thomas Lawrence, including more than one of his patron, the aforementioned George IV, rendered in all of his flamboyant charm.  And I couldn’t linger long enough in front of the delicious portrait of James II by Sir Peter Lely, a smug swagger and withering glance framed by a magnificent mane. Outrageous, I tell you. Outrageous.

If you think the collection of Holbein I saw in London would top my year, it was rivaled by the breathtaking pair I found at the Frick Collection in New York in November. I had heard the museum was closing for a prolonged renovation. So I hurried in to steal one last glance at those two magnificent portraits by Holbein of Sir Thomas More (those velvet sleeves!) and Thomas Cromwell, mortal enemies in life, now destined to stare at each other in eternal irony on the walls of Henry Clay Frick’s living room.

There was also an unforgettable collection of art and jewelry on display at Sotheby’s a few blocks away, where the incumbent Duke of Devonshire was auctioning off parts of his private collection from Chatsworth.  I was dumbstruck by the breadth and depth of his holdings – everything from da Vinci to John Singer Sargent, and yes, even a portrait of Henry VIII from the workshop of Holbein.

And there was the highly acclaimed (and, in my opinion, bizarre) production of Philip Glass’s “Akhnaten” at the Metropolitan Opera, which was the actual reason for this brief visit to New York.

The Hongs.

Sarah Steffen

When will I work again?  I don’t know.

Am I worried?  Like most who work in and around the hospitality industry, of course I am. I feel like I’m in a suspended state of animation, bracing for an impact that may not come until next month, or in six months, or maybe not at all.

The specter of uncertainty haunts all of us.  And this post – actually, all of my annual walks down memory lane – serves as a personal reminder to be grateful for all of the opportunities that I’ve had, and, especially, for having maximized every one of them.  I can happily say that I have no regrets from 2019.  I squeezed every ounce of pleasure from it.  And if I am to have no more, I am content knowing that I’ve already enjoyed more than my fair share.

But let’s hope it doesn’t end here.

There are projects to be continued.  In 2019, I partnered with the Karbank family to create a series of symposia highlighting issues in the culinary community.  We’ve hosted two already, and look forward to more.

There are stories to be told: Even as I type, work has commenced on the next volumes of Drift and Ambrosia.

There are meals to be had.  My 40th birthday dinner was postponed two years ago due to an unexpected renovation at that restaurant. Rescheduled for late March this year, it was put on hold again due to this pandemic.  I will have that meal.  

And there is world to see.  So much world to see!

I’ve talked with chefs and restaurateurs.  I know how grim the numbers look. I’ve also spoken with doctors and healthcare workers, and know just how grisly those numbers have looked as well.  But I’m inspired by the persistence and resilience I see all around me. Despite bombastic headlines that irresponsibly incite fear and outrage, sow division, and rob us of reason (to what good end?), glimmers of hope increase by the day.  I watch with cautious optimism as parts of the world slowly reopen.  And I pray for their success, because their success will be all of our success.

God speed.

In preparation for my annual posts about my favorite dishes, desserts, and meals from 2019, I provide here an accounting of all of the restaurants that I visited last year.

JANUARY

Bella Napoli (Kansas City, Missouri)
Blue Koi (Kansas City, Missouri)
Carniceria San Antonio (Kansas City, Missouri)
Columbus Park Ramen (Kansas City, Missouri)
Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room (Kansas City, Missouri)
Farm Bluffton, The (Bluffton, South Carolina)
Grey, The (Savannah, Georgia)
Grey Market, The (Savannah, Georgia)
Happy Gillis Café & Hangout (Kansas City, Missouri)
Kin Lin (Kansas City, Missouri)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Restaurant at 1900, The (Fairway, Kansas)
Rye (Kansas City, Missouri)
Slap’s BBQ (Kansas City, Kansas)
Vietnam Café (Kansas City, Missouri)

FEBRUARY

American, The (Kansas City, Missouri)
Barn at Blackberry Farm, The (Walland, Tennessee) (2x)
Brennan’s (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Café du Monde (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Carniceria San Antonio (Kansas City, Missouri)
Coquette (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Dogwood at Blackberry Farm (Walland, Tennessee) (2x
Domilise’s (New Orleans, Louisiana)
J.C. Holdway (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Joe’s Kansas City (Kansas City, Kansas)
Justine (New Orleans, Louisiana)
La Petite Grocery (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Napoleon House (New Orleans, Louisiana)
Tacos el Gallo (Kansas City, Missouri)
Three Sisters at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee)
Turkey and the Wolf (New Orleans, Louisiana)

MARCH

Asador Etxebarri (Axtondo, Spain)
Bar Von der Fels (Calgary, Alberta; Canada)
Bar Zabaleta (San Sebastian, Spain)
Bluestem (Kansas City, Missouri)
Borda Berri (San Sebastian, Spain)
Brobeck’s Barbeque (Leawood, Kansas)
Campground, The (Kansas City, Missouri)
Cervecería Catalana (Barcelona, Spain)
Elkano (Getaria, Spain)
El Nacional (Barcelona, Spain)
El Quim de la Boqueria (Barcelona, Spain) (2x)
Farina (Kansas City, Missouri) (2x)
Firetower at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (3x)
Ganbara (San Sebastian, Spain) (2x)
Granja M. Viader (Barcelona, Spain)
Grapes at the Fairmont Banff Springs (Banff Springs, Canada)
Hawthorn (Calgary, Alberta; Canada) (4x)
Les Halles (Biarritz, France)
Mesón Bidea Berri (San Sebastian, Spain)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Poi-Ō (Kansas City, Missouri)
Poppy Brasserie (Lake Louise, Canada)
Rye (Kansas City, Missouri)
Salamanca Silvestre (Barcelona, Spain)
Sidreria Lizeaga (San Sebastian, Spain)
Silver Dragon, The (Calgary, Alberta; Canada)
Three Sisters at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (3x)
Vermillion Room (Banff Springs, Canada)
Walliser Stube (Lake Louise, Canada)

APRIL

Angler (San Francisco, California)
Atlantikos (Bal Harbour, Florida)
La Mercerie (New York, New York)
Le Coucou (New York, New York)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Surf Club, The (Miami, Florida)
TAK Room (New York, New York)
Verjus (San Francisco, California)

MAY

3 Arts Café (Chicago, Illinois)
Avec (Chicago, Illinois)
Barn at Blackberry Farm, The (Walland, Tennessee)
Bavette Bar & Boeuf (Chicago, Illinois)
Beech House (St. Albans, The United Kingdom)
Biscuit Love (Nashville, Tennessee)
Butcher and the Bee (Nashville, Tennessee)
Arnold’s Country Kitchen (Nashville, Tennessee)
Café Marie-Jeanne (Chicago, Illinois)
Dishoom (London, The United Kingdom)
Firetower at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (4x)
Forge (Whitstable, The United Kingdom)
Goring, The (London, The United Kingdom)
Gymkhana (London, The United Kingdom)
Hand and Flowers, The (Marlow, The United Kingdom)
Herons (Cary, North Carolina) (2x)
Hatfield House (Hatfield, The United Kingdom)
Kaspar’s at The Savoy (London, The United Kingdom)
Le Gavroche (London, The United Kingdom)
Lily Vanilli (London, The United Kingdom)
Lyle’s (London, The United Kingdom)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Pinewood Social (Nashville, Tennessee)
River Café, The (London, The United Kingdom)
Rochelle Canteen (London, The United Kingdom) (2x
Rolf & Daughters (Nashville, Tennessee)
Savoy Grill (London, The United Kingdom)
Sportsman, The (Seasalter, The United Kingdom)
St. John Bread & Wine (London, The United Kingdom) (2x)
Umstead Hotel & Spa (Cary, North Carolina)
Violet Bakery (London, The United Kingdom)
Wolseley, The (London, The United Kingdom)
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (London, The United Kingdom)

JUNE

Aloette (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Angler (Los Angeles, California) (2x)
A.O.C. (Los Angeles, California)
Bar Raval (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Brewery Bhavana (Raleigh, North Carolina)
Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room (Kansas City, Missouri)
Crown Pastries (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Dandylion (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Dialogue (Santa Monica, California)
Felix Trattoria (Venice, California)
GB Hand-Pulled Noodles (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Ghadir Meat (Makam, Ontario; Canada)
Gjusta (Venice, California) (3x)
Happy Gillis Café & Hangout (Kansas City, Missouri)
Leo’s Taco Truck (Los Angeles, California)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Northern Dumpling Kitchen (Richmond Hill, Ontario; Canada)
Pizzeria Mozza (Los Angeles, California)
Polo Lounge (Beverly Hills, California)
Reign at the Fairmont Royal York (Toronto, Ontario; Canada) (3x)
Restorans Malaysia (Toronto, Ontario; Canada)
Sonoratown (Los Angeles, California)
Tacos la Guera (Los Angeles, California)

JULY

Angler (Los Angeles, California)
Angler (San Francisco, California)
Boulette’s Larder (San Francisco, California)
Dialogue (Santa Monica, California)
Fox and Pearl (Kansas City, Missouri)
Gjusta (Venice, California)
Jam! (Bozeman, Montana)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Petit Trois (Los Angeles, California)
République (Los Angeles, California)
Shack, The (Twin Bridges, Montana) (4x)
Verjus (San Francisco, California)
Wagon Wheel, The (Twin Bridges, Montana)
Wells Fargo Steakhouse (Virginia City, Montana)
Zuni Café (San Francisco, California)

AUGUST

1900 Barker (Lawrence, Kansas)
Fox and Pearl (Kansas City, Missouri)
J. Rieger & Co. (Kansas City, Missouri)
Mass Street Fish House & Raw Bar (Lawrence, Kansas)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Ragazza (Kansas City, Missouri)
Rye (Leawood, Kansas)
Savoy at 21C (Kansas City, Missouri)
Tacos el Gallo (Kansas City, Missouri)

SEPTEMBER

108 Corner (Copenhagen, Denmark) (once, twice)
à terre (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Alouette (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Angler (Los Angeles, California) (3x)
Antico (Los Angeles, California)
Apollo Bar (Copenhagen, Denmark) (2x)
atoboy (New York, New York)
Bistro Bohême (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Café Altro Paradiso (New York, New York)
Flor (London, The United Kingdom)
Gjusta (Venice, California)
Hija de Sanchez (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Holborn Dining Room (London, the United Kingdom)
Ikoyi (London, The United Kingdom)
Juno the Bakery (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Kong Hans Kælder (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Marchal (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Pasjoli (Santa Monica, California)
Pavillion at Kensington Palace (London, The United Kingdom)
Plaza Hotel, The (New York, New York) (4x)
Restaurant at 1900, The (Fairway, Kansas)
Rye (Kansas City, Missouri)
Shun (New York, New York)
St. John (London, The United Kingdom)
Tartine Sycamore (Los Angeles, California)
Will at the Bridge; Broens Gadekøkken (Copenhagen, Denmark)

OCTOBER

A Dopo (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Angler (Los Angeles, California)
Barn at Blackberry Farm, The (Walland, Tennessee)
Bavel (Los Angeles, California)
Bluestem (Kansas City, Missouri)
County Road Ice House (Kansas City, Missouri)
Emilia (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Firetower at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee)
Fox and Pearl (Kansas City, Missouri)
Gjusta (Venice, California)
J.C. Holdway (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Joe’s Kansas City (Kansas City, Kansas)
LC’s BBQ (Kansas City, Missouri)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Night + Market (Los Angeles, California)
Pasjoli (Santa Monica, California)
Polo Lounge (Beverly Hills, California)
République (Los Angeles, California)
Seva Cuisine of India (Liberty, Missouri)
Sichuan Impressions (Los Angeles, California)
Tartine Sycamore (Los Angeles, California)
Three Sisters at Blackberry Mountain (Walland, Tennessee) (3x)
Wild Love Bakehouse (Knoxville, Tennessee)

NOVEMBER

Angler (San Francisco, California)
Brown Hotel (Louisville, Kentucky)
Butchertown Grocery (Louisville, Kentucky)
Eagle, The (Louisville, Kentucky)
Lincoln Ristorante (New York, New York)
Mako (Los Cabos, Mexico)
Messenger Coffee (Kansas City, Missouri)
Mozza Pi (Louisville, Kentucky)
PPQ Dungeness Island (San Francisco, California)
Tsukushinbo (Seattle, Washington)
White Light Diner (Frankfort, Kentucky)
Willett Distillery (Bardstown, Kentucky)

DECEMBER

Birdie G’s (Santa Monica, California)
Bouchon (Yountville, California)
Charter Oak, The (St. Helena, California) (4x)
French Laundry, The (Yountville, California)
Giugni’s Deli (St. Helena, California)
Gott’s (St. Helena, California) (2x)
Mizaki (Los Cabos, Mexico)
Model Bakery (St. Helena, California (5x)
Restaurant at Meadowood, The (St. Helena, California)
Restaurant at Meadowood, The (St. Helena, California; The Twelve Days of Christmas: Camara, Shields, Calvert, Avillez, Park, Chan, Nørregaard, Williams, Charles, Lee, Cantu, and Kostow)
Tartine Sycamore (Los Angeles, California) (2x)

Tarpon

Here is a catalog of my prior year-end posts:

2011: suitcase party…
2012: foreign and domestic…
2013: blurred lines…
2014: leapfrogging… 
2015: fairytale…
2016: hemispheres and horizons… 
2017: an education…
2018: field and stream…

Lake Louise

* You can listen to Jeremy Irons narrate the entire tour of the abbey through the Westminster app, which you can download to your smartphone.

Photos: “Victory of Alexander over the Caesars” by Verrio – the grand staircase to King William III’s apartments at Hampton Court Palace; the stained glass windows at la Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain; the house of Ernest Hemingway in Key West, Florida; wedding in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico; in the garden at The Umstead Hotel & Spa in Cary, North Carolina; in-room breakfast at The Plaza in New York, New York; a fox hunt at Field & Fire, Palmetto Bluff, South Carolina; bacon hanging at Allan Benton’s smokehouse in Madisonville, Tennessee; in the rick house at Buffalo Trace with Julian van Winkle, Frankfort, Kentucky; el Nacional in Barcelona, Spain; Kim Dolva at Alouette in Copenhagen, Denmark; the great hall at Hatfield House in Hatfield, The United Kingdom; pastries at Violet Bakery in London; lunch at the counter at Flor in London; the “Coronation Portrait” of Elizabeth I at the National Portrait Gallery in London; Felix Roasting Co. in New York, New York; Bookbinders at Hudson Yards in New York, New York; Katianna and John Hong at The American Restaurant in Kansas City, Missouri; Sarah Steffan at The Restaurant at 1900 in Fairway, Kansas; the latticed dining room at Brennan’s in New Orleans, Louisiana; Richard Hart at Hart Bageri in Copenhagen, Denmark; Joshua Skenes pulling in a giant tarpon in the Florida flats; and a frozen Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Canada. 

Viewing all 199 articles
Browse latest View live